Grünkohlessen
A winter custom of kale feasts, walks, and royal titles.
Grünkohlessen is an old wintertime custom in North Germany and parts of Denmark, involving drinking, games, and a feast of regional dishes typically featuring kale, potatoes, and sausages. It is practiced in numerous regions including the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen, Oldenburg Land, East Frisia, Hamburg, and Westphalia, among others. The custom centers on a Kohlfahrt ("cabbage walk"), a mid-winter walk through the countryside to a village pub, often accompanied by cross-country games such as Boßeln and the consumption of alcoholic beverages like korn or sherry.
- Field
- Winter folk custom
- Region
- North Germany, Denmark
- Known for
- Kohlfahrt (cabbage walk), Grünkohl feast, Kohlkönig proclamation
- Key dish
- Grünkohl (curly-leafed kale with potatoes and sausages)
- Typical drinks
- Korn, beer, sherry
Lore & Background
The Grünkohlessen custom involves a walk through the countryside to a village pub, usually in mid-winter. Participants bring alcoholic beverages in a shopping trolley or handcart, handed out at points along the walk or as part of games. At the pub, they are served Grünkohl with German fries or boiled potatoes and various sausages such as Kassler, Bregenwurst, Pinkel, or Kohlwurst, along with beer and/or Korn to aid digestion. Music and dancing often follow the meal.
Reader's Guide
The climax of the Grünkohlessen is the proclamation of the Kohlkönig ("cabbage king") or Kohlkönigspaar ("royal cabbage couple"). The title is awarded based on the number of portions consumed, weight gain before and after the meal, or results of games during the walk. The king is the last to leave the table, excluding toilet visits and dancing breaks. Visible signs of royalty include chains with the history of the group's Kohlkönigs or a pig's jawbone with an inscription. The king or royal couple must organize the following year's event. Many firms, street communities, and clubs hold Grünkohlessen in winter, causing village inns to be fully booked weeks in advance on popular Saturdays in January and February. Since 2007, one of the biggest events has been the Grünkohl-Schlemmerfest in Hamburg's Fish Auction Hall, with over 1,500 paying guests. The Defftig Ollnborger Gröönkohl-Äten in Berlin is run by a political rural conservation group from Oldenburg Land.
Did You Know?
- Grünkohl is curly-leafed kale traditionally harvested after the first autumn frost to reduce bitter components.
- One of the biggest Grünkohlessen events, the Grünkohl-Schlemmerfest, has taken place in Hamburg since 2006.
More in German folklore 1-24
Spotted an error? Know more?
Reader corrections go straight into our review queue. Suggest an edit · How this site is sourced