Stout

Lore & Background

The history and development of stout and porter are intertwined. Porter originated in London, England in the early 1720s, becoming popular with porters due to its strong flavour, longer shelf life, lower cost, and resistance to heat. London porter breweries grew to an unprecedented scale, exporting large volumes to Ireland. By 1776, Arthur Guinness was brewing it at his St. James's Gate Brewery. In the 19th century, the beer gained its customary black colour through black patent malt and became stronger in flavour.

Originally the adjective 'stout' meant 'proud' or 'brave', but after the 14th century it took on the connotation of 'strong'. The expression 'stout porter' was applied during the 18th century to strong versions of porter. Later, stout became associated only with porter, becoming a synonym of dark beer. There is still division and debate on whether stouts should be a separate style from porter; usually the only deciding factor is strength.

Milk stout (also called sweet stout or cream stout) contains lactose, which adds sweetness and body. It was historically advertised as nutritious, even for nursing mothers. Oatmeal stout includes a proportion of oats, normally up to 30%, and its smoothness comes from the high content of proteins, lipids, and gums imparted by the oats. Irish stout, also called dry stout, is the non-sweet style that became dominant in Ireland and is the style that represents a typical stout to most people.

Reader's Guide

Stout's significance lies in its deep historical roots and its revival in the 21st century. After a period of decline—by the mid-1980s a survey found only 29 brewers in the UK and Channel Islands still making stout, most of them milk stouts—the style has made a comeback thanks to new products from burgeoning craft and regional brewers. Beer writer Michael Jackson wrote about stouts and porters in the 1970s, helping to rekindle interest. The style's legacy includes the global dominance of Irish stouts, particularly those from Guinness at St. James's Gate Brewery in Dublin, which are the best-selling stouts worldwide. Draught Irish stout is often served with nitrogen propellant to create a creamy texture and long-lasting head, and some canned and bottled versions include a widget to replicate this. Oatmeal stout, which had largely died out by the 1970s, was revived when Charles Finkel commissioned Samuel Smith to produce a version, which became a template for other breweries. Oyster stout, combining oysters with stout, was first sold in New Zealand in 1938 and later produced in London. The style continues to evolve, with modern craft breweries reviving substyles such as milk stout and oatmeal stout.

Did You Know?

• The first known use of the word 'stout' for beer is in a 1677 document from the Egerton Manuscripts.
• Milk stout contains lactose, a sugar from milk that cannot be fermented by beer yeast, adding sweetness and body.
• In the 1920s and 1930s, Whitbread's London Stout and Oatmeal Stout were identical, just packaged differently.
• Oyster stout was first sold by the Dunedin Brewery Company in New Zealand in 1938.