Australian Cuisine Codexery

Flake (fish)

Australian term for shark flesh, popular in fish and chips.

Flake (fish)

Flake is an Australian term for the meat of various shark species, most often the gummy shark. The name likely emerged in the late 1920s, when Victoria began a large-scale commercial shark fishery; before that, sharks were usually caught by accident rather than on purpose. Flake quickly became a favorite. It tastes mild, cooks up soft yet firm, stays white, and has no bones because sharks are cartilaginous. These traits, plus a steady supply and low cost, made flake the top fish in Australian fish and chip shops. It is still popular, but no longer especially cheap.

While the gummy shark is the main species sold as flake, others include: school shark (critically endangered), elephant fish, whiskery shark, Australian blacktip shark, sawshark (several species), various dog sharks (including the endangered greeneye spurdog), wobbegong, and scalloped hammerhead (critically endangered). Notably, about 10% of fillets labeled as flake come from an endangered species, and another 70% are mislabeled, often hiding the presence of threatened species.

In the late 1960s, it was discovered that large individuals of several shark species had high levels of heavy metals, especially mercury. Public concern led the Victorian government to ban the sale of large school sharks from 1972 to 1985. In Britain, nursehound is not commonly sold as flake; it is sold as 'rock salmon' or 'huss'.

Origin
Australia
First used
Late 1920s
Primary species
Gummy shark (Mustelus antarcticus)
Common use
Fish and chip shops
Notable issue
Mislabeling and endangered species

Lore & Background

Flake became a staple in Australian cuisine after the establishment of a large-scale commercial shark fishery off the coast of Victoria in the late 1920s. Before that, shark was only caught incidentally. Its mild flavour, soft yet firm texture, white appearance, and boneless nature made it highly desirable, and its low price and availability cemented its place as the most common fish in fish and chip shops. Although still popular, flake is no longer especially cheap.

Reader's Guide

Flake's significance lies in its role as a cornerstone of Australian fish and chip culture, representing a shift from incidental catch to targeted fishery. However, its legacy is complicated by conservation concerns. The article notes that an estimated 10% of fillets sold as flake originate from an endangered species, and a further 70% are mislabeled, often masking the presence of threatened species such as the critically endangered school shark and scalloped hammerhead. Additionally, during the late 1960s, high levels of heavy metals, particularly mercury, were found in larger sharks, leading to a ban on the sale of large school sharks in Victoria from 1972 to 1985. In Britain, nursehound is often sold as flake, indicating the term's broader but inconsistent use.

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