Oolong

Oolong is a traditional Chinese tea made from the *Camellia sinensis* plant. It undergoes partial oxidation, a process that starts with withering the leaves in strong sunlight. After some oxidation occurs, the leaves are curled and twisted. The level of oxidation can vary widely, from 8% to 85%, depending on the variety and how the tea is made. This tea is especially common in southeastern China and among ethnic Chinese communities in Southeast Asia, where it is often prepared using the Fujian-style gongfu tea ceremony.

The flavor of oolong tea changes a lot based on how it is grown and processed. Some types are sweet and fruity with honey-like notes, others are woody and thick with roasted flavors, and still others are green and fresh with complex aromas. The leaves themselves usually take one of two shapes: long, curly leaves or small beads with a tail, the former being the older style. Many high-quality oolongs come from specific tea plant cultivars grown only for particular varieties.

The term "oolong" (or *wulong*) first appeared in a text from 1857 called *Miscellaneous Notes on Fujian* by Shi Hongbao. In Taiwan, these teas are also called *qingcha* (dark green teas), a name that became common in the early 2000s. In French, oolong is known as *thé bleu* (blue tea). Oolong shares traits with both green and black teas: it has light flavor notes but is often more complex than green tea, and it is not as strong as black tea. Making oolong involves repeating steps of withering, rolling, shaping, and firing, with careful attention to timing and temperature.

**Etymology** There is no single agreed-upon explanation for the name "oolong." One theory is that it came from the Dragon-Phoenix Tea Cake tribute tea. When loose tea became fashionable, the dark, long, curly leaves were called "Black Dragon" tea, which led to the name oolong.

**Varieties**

**Fujian** Tea production in Fujian is centered in two areas: the Wuyi Mountains and Anxi County. Both are historic hubs for oolong tea.

*Wuyi Mountains* The most famous and expensive oolongs come from here, often produced organically. Notable cliff teas include: - Da Hong Pao ("Big Red Robe"): a highly prized tea and one of the Si Da Ming Cong teas, also one of China's famous teas. - Shui Jin Gui ("Golden Water Turtle"): a Si Da Ming Cong tea. - Tieluohan ("Iron Arhat"): a Si Da Ming Cong tea. - Bai Jiguan ("White Cockscomb"): a Si Da Ming Cong tea with light, yellowish leaves. - Rougui ("Cassia"): a dark tea with a spicy aroma. - Shui Xian ("Narcissus"): a very dark tea, much of which is grown elsewhere in Fujian.

*Anxi* - Tieguanyin ("Iron Goddess of Mercy"): one of the Ten Famous Chinese Teas. - Huangjin Gui ("Golden Cassia" or "Golden Osmanthus"): similar to Tieguanyin, with a very fragrant flavor.

**Guangdong** Single Bush Dancong ("Phoenix oolong") teas come from Guangdong Province. These strip-style oolongs are known for naturally mimicking the flavors and fragrances of flowers and fruits, such as orange blossom, orchid, grapefruit, and almond. Originally, *dancong* meant teas picked from a single tree, but now it is a general term for all Phoenix Mountain oolongs. True dancongs are still made but are rare outside China.

**Taiwan** Tea cultivation in Taiwan started in the 18th century, and many Fujian varieties are also grown there. Since the 1970s, the tea industry has grown quickly, and most Taiwanese tea is consumed locally due to strong demand and tea culture. Taiwan's variable weather means tea quality changes with the seasons. The island's geography—with high, steep mountains and varied soil—creates differences in appearance, aroma, and flavor. In some mountain areas, teas are grown at higher elevations for a unique, sweet taste that commands a premium price. - Dong Ding ("Frozen Summit" or "Ice Peak"): grown on a mountain in Nantou County, Central Taiwan. It is a tightly rolled tea with a light, distinctive fragrance. - Dongfang meiren ("Oriental Beauty"): this tea has very strong aromatics due to high terpene levels, partly from the processing and partly because the tea plants are bitten by Jassid (leaf hopper) insects before picking. It is picked in summer at lower elevations, which attracts these insects. - Alishan oolong: grown in the Alishan area of Chiayi County at elevations of 1,000 to 1,400 meters. It has large, rolled leaves that appear purple-green when dry.