Winemaking Codexery

Secondary fermentation (wine)

A second fermentation period in a different vessel.

In winemaking, secondary fermentation refers to a second stage of fermentation that occurs in a different container than the one where fermentation first began. For instance, fermentation might start in a carboy or stainless steel tank and then be moved into oak barrels. Despite the name, this is usually just a single fermentation period split across multiple vessels, though the term can also describe a genuinely separate, second fermentation event.

For sparkling wines, this secondary fermentation often happens inside the bottle that will be sold—a technique known as the méthode champenoise, or Champagne method, named after the famous sparkling wine region. After the base wine (or cuvée) is made from one or more grape varieties, it is bottled with a mixture of yeast and fresh sugar called the "liqueur de tirage." This bottle fermentation traps carbon dioxide, which is normally released as a byproduct, creating the wine's bubbles.

In still wine production—especially red wines and some whites like Chardonnay—secondary fermentation can involve malolactic fermentation (MLF). This process converts sharp, green apple–like malic acid into softer, butter-like lactic acid. If a fermentation gets stuck, a winemaker may transfer the must to a second vessel and use stronger, more aggressive yeasts at higher temperatures to restart it. A similar method, called governo, has been used by Tuscan winemakers since the 14th century: they set aside a batch of grapes after harvest to add later, helping to prevent or recover from a stuck fermentation.

Related region
Champagne
Historical technique
governo
Historical origin
Tuscan winemakers since the 14th century

Lore & Background

In red wine production, the maceration process was traditionally done in large vats where the fermentation process would begin, as noted by the presence of carbon dioxide bubbles. Secondary fermentation would take place when the wine is transferred to a second container such as a carboy or oak barrel. In sparkling wine production, the secondary fermentation often takes place in the wine bottle that the wine will be sold in, most commonly known as the méthode champenoise or 'Champagne method' after the region most noted for sparkling wine production. When the base wine (or cuvee) has been produced from single grape varietals or a blend, the wine is bottled with a mixture of yeast and fresh sugar known as the 'liqueur de tirage'. This secondary fermentation, also known as bottle fermentation, is the process that makes the wine 'bubbly' due to the containment of carbon dioxide which is normally released as a by product in regular fermentation. In still wine production, particularly of red wines and some white wines like Chardonnay, the secondary fermentation process can also usher in the use of malolactic fermentation (or MLF) where the hard, green apple-like malic acid is converted into softer, butter-like lactic acid. In the case of a stuck fermentation, a winemaker may wish to transfer the must to a second vessel and use stronger, more aggressive yeasts with high fermentation temperatures to re-initiate the fermentation process. A similar process known as governo has been used by Tuscan winemakers since the 14th century with the isolation after harvest of a batch of grapes that can be added later to the wine to help prevent (or recover from) a stuck fermentation.

Reader's Guide

Secondary fermentation is significant in winemaking for its role in both still and sparkling wine production. In sparkling wines, the containment of carbon dioxide during bottle fermentation creates the characteristic bubbles, while dead yeast cells known as lees must be removed in a process called disgorgement prior to corking. For still wines, secondary fermentation often involves malolactic fermentation, which softens acidity by converting malic acid to lactic acid, a technique used for red wines and some white wines like Chardonnay. The term also covers the practice of transferring fermenting must to a second vessel to restart a stuck fermentation using stronger yeasts and higher temperatures. The historical governo method from Tuscany, dating to the 14th century, similarly addresses stuck fermentation by adding reserved grapes. Overall, secondary fermentation is a flexible concept that encompasses multiple techniques for managing fermentation, adjusting flavor, and achieving desired wine styles.

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