Irish Cuisine Codexery

Limerick ham

Dry-cured Irish ham smoked over straw and sawdust.

Limerick ham

Limerick ham (Liamhás Luimnigh in Irish) is a style of preparing a ham joint in Irish cuisine, using a dry curing method that originated in County Limerick. During the 19th century, producers like O'Mara's, Matterson, Shaws, and Denny built the city's reputation for ham and pork goods, earning Limerick the nickname "Pigtown." O'Mara's began operations in 1839 and later had a factory in Russia during the 1890s, plus offices in London. From the early 1800s, these hams were shipped across the British Empire on vessels called "Limerick Liners." Some accounts say Queen Victoria ate Limerick ham at Christmas, and it was stocked on the Titanic. It has also been served to visiting dignitaries in Ireland, including Ronald Reagan. The pork trade in Limerick declined from the 1970s, unable to compete with imports from Denmark, France, and the Netherlands.

Traditionally, the first step is dry curing the ham. After that, whole haunches and other cuts go to butchers, who often divide them into smaller portions and may cure the meat before sale. Theodora FitzGibbon noted a 1779 recipe that called for smoking a ham for two or three days in a chimney over a fire of oak shavings, straw, and one pound of juniper berries. In modern manufacturing, the meat is dry cured using a "salt-and-stack" method—rubbed with dry salt, saltpetre, and sugar—then hung and smoked for at least 10 to 12 hours over smouldering straw and sawdust. After purchase, the ham is typically soaked in cold water overnight. Cooking involves boiling it in cider, then baking at a very high heat to crisp the fat.

Field
Cuisine of Ireland
Nationality
Irish
Known for
Dry-cured ham smoked over juniper branches
Origin
County Limerick, Ireland
Era
19th century onward

Lore & Background

Limerick ham's preparation traditionally begins with dry curing the meat. After this stage, whole haunches and hams are distributed to butchers, who may further cure the meat. Theodora FitzGibbon noted a recipe from 1779 stating a ham would be smoked for 2 or 3 days in a chimney over a fire of oak shavings, straw, and 'one pound of juniper berries'. In the manufacturing process, the meat is first dry cured in a 'salt-and-stack' method by rubbing it with dry salt, saltpetre, and sugar, then hung and smoked for at least 10-12 hours over smouldering straw and sawdust.

Reader's Guide

Limerick ham represents a distinctive regional food tradition within Irish cuisine, developed in County Limerick and exported across the British Empire from the early 1800s on ships called 'Limerick Liners'. Its significance is underscored by its presence on the Titanic and its service to visiting dignitaries including Ronald Reagan, as well as claims that Queen Victoria ate it for Christmas. The ham's preparation involves a specific dry-curing and smoking process using juniper, which sets it apart from other hams. However, the pork trade in Limerick went into decline from the 1970s, unable to compete with imported products from Denmark, France, and the Netherlands. Today, Limerick ham remains a noted example of traditional Irish cured meat, though its commercial production has diminished.

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