Tarragon

Tarragon—known botanically as Artemisia dracunculus and also called estragon—is a perennial herb belonging to the Asteraceae family. It grows wild across much of Eurasia and North America and is raised both for cooking and medicinal use. The variety Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa is the preferred culinary type known as French tarragon, prized for its fragrant leaves. In contrast, Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. dracunculus, also called Artemisia dracunculoides) lacks that distinctive scent and is considered inferior for cooking.

The plant reaches 120–150 cm (4–5 ft) in height, with slender branches. Its leaves are lanceolate, glossy green, 2–8 cm (1–3 in) long and 2–10 mm (1/8–3/8 in) wide, with smooth edges. Flowers appear in small heads 2–4 mm (1/16–3/16 in) across, each containing up to 40 yellow or greenish-yellow florets.

French tarragon rarely produces flowers or seeds. Some tarragon plants yield seeds that are mostly sterile, while others produce viable seeds. The plant spreads and reproduces readily through rhizomatous roots.

For cultivation, French tarragon is the variety used in kitchens. Because its flowers are sterile, it cannot be grown from seed and must be propagated by root division. Russian tarragon can be started from seed but has a much weaker flavor than French tarragon. However, it is hardier and more vigorous, spreading via roots and growing over a meter tall.

It thrives in poor soil, tolerates drought and neglect, and produces many more leaves from early spring onward—leaves that are mild and suitable for salads and cooked dishes. Russian tarragon loses what little flavor it has as it ages and is often considered useless as a culinary herb, though it is sometimes used in crafts. Its young stems in early spring can be cooked like asparagus. Horticulturists recommend growing Russian tarragon indoors from seed and planting it out in summer; the spreading plants are easily divided.

A better substitute for Russian tarragon is Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida), also known as Mexican mint marigold, Texas tarragon, or winter tarragon. Its flavor is much closer to French tarragon, with a hint of anise. Though it belongs to a different genus, Mexican tarragon has a more robust taste that does not fade significantly with age. It cannot, however, survive as a perennial in cold climates.