Tenzing Norgay
First confirmed to summit Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary.
Tenzing Norgay (May 1914 – 9 May 1986), also called Sherpa Tenzing, was a Nepalese-Indian Sherpa mountaineer. On 29 May 1953, alongside Edmund Hillary, he became the first person confirmed to have stood on the summit of Mount Everest, during the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition. *Time* magazine listed him among the 100 most influential people of the 20th century.
His early life is described in conflicting accounts. In his autobiography, Tenzing wrote that he was a Sherpa born and raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeastern Nepal. But in a 1985 radio interview, he said his parents were from Tibet, though he himself was born in Nepal. Many later sources, including a book co-written by his son, place his birth in Tibet, at Tse Chu in the Kama Valley, with his childhood spent in Thame and early years near Kharta. As a child, he went to Nepal to work for a Sherpa family in Khumbu. The region lies near Mount Everest, known to Tibetans and Sherpas as Chomolungma, meaning "Holy Mother" or goddess of the summit. Tenzing was Buddhist, the traditional religion of Sherpas and Tibetans.
His exact birth date is unknown, but he knew it fell in late May from the weather and crops. After summiting Everest on 29 May 1953, he chose to celebrate his birthday on that day from then on. His birth year, according to the Tibetan calendar, was the Year of the Rabbit, likely 1914. This matches John Hunt’s statement that Tenzing was 39 in 1953 and had become not just the foremost climber of his people but a mountaineer of world standing.
Originally named Namgyal Wangdi, his name was changed as a child on the advice of the head lama of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu. "Tenzing Norgay" translates to "wealthy-fortunate-follower-of-religion." His father, Ghang La Mingma, was a Tibetan yak herder who died in 1949; his mother, Dokmo Kinzom, was Tibetan and lived to see him climb Everest. Tenzing was the 11th of 13 children, several of whom died young.
As a teenager, he ran away from home twice—first to Kathmandu, then to Darjeeling, India, which was then the starting point for most eastern Himalayan expeditions. He eventually became an Indian citizen. He was once sent to Tengboche Monastery to become a monk but decided it was not for him and left. At 19, he settled in the Sherpa community in Darjeeling’s Too Song Busti district.
His first chance to join an Everest expedition came at age 20, when Eric Shipton was assembling the 1935 British reconnaissance team. After two other candidates failed medical tests, his friend Ang Tharkay, a Sherpa sirdar from the 1933 expedition, pushed him forward. Shipton noticed his attractive smile and took him on.
Tenzing worked as a high-altitude porter on three official British attempts to climb Everest from the Tibetan side in the 1930s. On the 1936 expedition, he worked with John Morris. He also climbed in other parts of the Indian subcontinent. In the early 1940s, he lived in the princely state of Chitral (then in India, later in Pakistan) as batman to a Major Chapman. His first wife died and was buried there. During the 1947 partition of India, he returned to Darjeeling with his two daughters, crossing India by train without a ticket by wearing one of Chapman’s old uniforms.
In 1947, he joined an illegal, unsuccessful Everest attempt with Canadian Earl Denman and Ange Dawa Sherpa. A strong storm hit at 22,000 feet, and Denman gave up; all three returned safely. That same year, Tenzing became a sirdar for a Swiss expedition after helping rescue the injured Sirdar Wangdi Norbu. The expedition reached the main summit of Kedarnath at 22,769 feet, with Tenzing in the summit party. In 1951, he joined the British reconnaissance expedition.
In 1952, he took part in two Swiss expeditions led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant (spring) and Gabriel Chevalley (autumn)—the first serious attempts on Everest from the Nepalese side. On 28 May, Raymond Lambert and Tenzing reached about 8,595 meters on the southeast ridge, a new altitude record. Tenzing called being treated as a full expedition member "the greatest honour that had ever been paid me." The expedition opened a new route on Everest, successfully climbed the next year, and forged a lasting friendship with his Swiss companions, especially Lambert. The autumn team was stopped by bad weather at 8,100 meters.
In 1953, Tenzing joined John Hunt’s expedition—his seventh time on Everest, Hunt’s third. Team member Edmund Hillary fell into a crevasse but was saved when Tenzing quickly secured the rope with his ice axe, leading Hillary to choose him as his climbing partner for any future summit attempt.
- born
- May 1914 (Year of the Rabbit, exact date unknown; celebrated 29 May after 1953)
- died
- 9 May 1986
- field
- Mountaineering
- nationality
- Nepalese-Indian
- known_for
- First confirmed ascent of Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary on 29 May 1953
Verified Timeline
Lore & Background
There are conflicting accounts of Tenzing Norgay's early life. In his autobiography, he wrote he was a Sherpa born and raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeastern Nepal. In a 1985 interview with All India Radio, he said his parents came from Tibet, but that he was born in Nepal. According to many later accounts, including a book co-written by his son Jamling Tenzin Norgay, he was born in Tibet, at Tse Chu in the Kama Valley, and grew up in Thame. He spent his early childhood in Kharta, near the north of the country. Norgay went to Nepal as a child to work for a Sherpa family in Khumbu. His original name was Namgyal Wangdi, changed as a child on the advice of the head lama and founder of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu. He was the 11th of 13 children, several of whom died young. His father, a Tibetan yak herder, was Ghang La Mingma (d. 1949), and his mother, who was Tibetan, was Dokmo Kinzom. She lived to see him climb Everest. He ran away from home twice in his teens, first to Kathmandu and later to Darjeeling, India, and eventually acquired Indian citizenship. At age 19 he settled in the Sherpa community in the Too Song Busti district of Darjeeling. Norgay's mountaineering career began at age 20, when Eric Shipton was assembling the 1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. After two other prospective team members failed their medical tests, Norgay was pushed forward by his friend Ang Tharkay, a Sherpa sirdar who had been on the 1933 British Mount Everest expedition. His attractive smile caught the eye of Shipton, who decided to take him on. He participated as a high-altitude porter in three official British attempts to climb Everest from the northern Tibetan side in the 1930s. In 1947, Norgay participated in an unsuccessful summit attempt of Everest with Earl Denman and Ange Dawa Sherpa, entering Tibet illegally; the attempt ended when a strong storm hit at 22,000 feet (6,700 m). In 1947, Norgay became a sirdar of a Swiss expedition for the first time after helping to rescue Sirdar Wangdi Norbu, and reached the main summit of Kedarnath at 22,769 feet (6,940 m) with the summit party. In 1952, he took part in two Swiss expeditions, the first serious attempts to climb Everest from the southern (Nepalese) side. On 28 May, Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay reached a height of about 8,595 metres (28,199 ft) on the southeast ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record. During this expedition, Norgay was for the first time considered a full expedition member, which he called 'the greatest honour that had ever been paid me.' In 1953, he took part in John Hunt's expedition, which totalled over 400 people, including 362 porters, 20 Sherpa guides and 10,000 pounds (4,500 kg) of baggage. On 29 May, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached Everest's 29,028-foot (8,848 m) summit at 11:30 a.m. They spent only about 15 minutes at the summit. Hillary took the famous photo of Norgay posing with his ice-axe; according to Norgay's autobiography, when Norgay offered to take Hillary's photograph, Hillary declined—'I motioned to Hillary that I would now take his picture. But for some reason he shook his head; he did not want it.' The first person they met on descent was Lowe, who had climbed up to meet them with hot soup. Afterwards, Norgay was met with great adulation in Nepal and India. Hillary and Hunt were knighted by Queen Elizabeth II, while Norgay received the George Medal. Norgay was not eligible for a knighthood as he was not a British subject.
Reader's Guide
Tenzing Norgay's significance lies in his role as one of the two first confirmed individuals to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on Earth, on 29 May 1953. His achievement, alongside Edmund Hillary, marked a milestone in human exploration. Norgay's legacy is also tied to his Sherpa heritage and his contributions to multiple Everest expeditions, including the 1952 Swiss attempts that pioneered the southern route and set a new climbing altitude record of about 8,595 metres (28,199 ft). His career elevated the role of Sherpa climbers from porters to full expedition members, as he was first considered a full member during the 1952 Swiss expedition. Time magazine recognized his influence by naming him one of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century. His life story, with its disputed origins—born in either Tengboche, Nepal, or Tse Chu, Tibet—and his eventual Indian citizenship, reflects the broader cultural and geographic connections of the Himalayan region. The 1953 expedition, involving over 400 people including 362 porters and 20 Sherpa guides, underscored the collaborative nature of such feats. Norgay's decision to celebrate his birthday on 29 May after the ascent highlights how the event defined his identity. After the climb, Norgay received the George Medal, while Hillary and Hunt were knighted; Norgay was not eligible for a knighthood as he was not a British subject.
Did You Know?
- Tenzing Norgay's original name was Namgyal Wangdi, changed as a child on the advice of the head lama and founder of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu.
- He was the 11th of 13 children, several of whom died young.
- In 1947, he entered Tibet illegally with Earl Denman and Ange Dawa Sherpa for an unsuccessful Everest attempt that ended when a strong storm hit at 22,000 feet (6,700 m).
- On 28 May 1952, Norgay and Raymond Lambert reached about 8,595 metres (28,199 ft) on Everest's southeast ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record.
- After the 1953 ascent, Norgay received the George Medal, while Hillary and Hunt were knighted; Norgay was not eligible for a knighthood as he was not a British subject.
Common Misconceptions (Editorial)
- Many people believe Tenzing Norgay was born in Tibet, but while some accounts claim that, he himself wrote in his autobiography that he was a Sherpa born and raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeastern Nepal. In a 1985 interview, he also stated his parents came from Tibet but he was born in Nepal. - It is sometimes assumed Tenzing Norgay was knighted alongside Edmund Hillary after the 1953 ascent. In fact, Hillary and expedition leader John Hunt were knighted, but Norgay received the George Medal because he was not a British subject and thus ineligible for a knighthood. - Some think Norgay named himself or that Sherpa Tenzing was his birth name, but his original name was Namgyal Wangdi, changed as a child on the advice of the head lama and founder of Rongbuk Monastery.
Why It Matters (Editorial)
Tenzing Norgay endures as a symbol of human determination and cross-cultural achievement. As a Sherpa mountaineer from modest beginnings, he reached the highest point on Earth alongside Edmund Hillary, demonstrating that courage and skill transcend nationality or background. His life reminds us that history’s most celebrated milestones are often the result of teamwork, with contributions from people whose names may not always be as widely remembered.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who is Tenzing Norgay?
Tenzing Norgay was a Sherpa mountaineer of Nepalese-Indian heritage who became a global icon for his role in the first verified summit of Mount Everest. In climbing circles he is commonly known simply as Sherpa Tenzing.
What is Tenzing Norgay most famous for?
Together with Edmund Hillary, he became the first pair confirmed to stand on top of Mount Everest on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition. That single feat defined his legacy in the history of mountaineering.
When and where was Tenzing Norgay born?
He was born in May 1914 in the Sherpa region of Nepal, during the traditional Year of the Rabbit. Because no exact birth date was ever recorded, the anniversary of his 1953 summit—29 May—is widely observed as his birthday.
How did Tenzing Norgay's life end?
He died on 9 May 1986, just twenty days shy of his 72nd birthday. Until his final years he remained active in promoting mountaineering and advocating for the rights and recognition of Sherpa communities.
Why is Tenzing Norgay considered one of the great explorers?
His 1953 ascent proved that the world's highest peak could be conquered through partnership, skill, and sheer determination, opening the door for generations of climbers afterward. Time magazine later named him among the 100 most influential people of the twentieth century.
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