Sagardotegi

Lore & Background

The word sagardotegi is composed of sagar 'apple', ardo 'wine', yielding sagardo 'cider', and the suffix -tegi denoting a building where an activity takes place, thus 'cider house'. In some Northern Basque dialects cider is called sagarno or sagarano. Although ardo today means 'wine', its original meaning appears to have been 'fermented drink', as evidenced by mahatsarno 'wine' (mahats 'grape') and garagardo 'beer' (garagar 'barley').

The more recent traditions surrounding sagardotegis hail back to when buyers interested in purchasing cider from a particular maker would bring food for tasting, as cider is considered best taken with a meal. This evolved into a gastronomical tradition, making the sagardotegi a cross between a grill and a cider house. In a traditional sagardotegi, three courses are taken: a starter of cod omelette or cod with peppers, a main of steak, and dessert of cheese (often Idiazabal), quince jelly and nuts. Food is traditionally taken standing at tall tables, though modern establishments often provide seating.

In the most traditional sagardotegi, each guest receives a glass after paying around 25 euros. At intervals a txotx is called, and those wanting cider go to the lower section where barrels are stored horizontally with a small tap in the lid at about head-height. The innkeeper or first guest opens the tap, and a thin stream of cider exits, which guests catch with their glasses as low down as possible to aerate the cider.

People return to their tables until the next txotx. Each guest may drink as much cider as they like. The barrels are often behind a partition with a lower floor level than the main eating area.

Reader's Guide

The sagardotegi is a central institution in Basque cider culture, rooted in centuries of apple cultivation and cider making. The earliest written records of cider making and drinking in the region go back to the 11th and 12th centuries, including a record of Sancho III of Navarre sending an envoy to the Monastery of Leire in 1014 who mentions apples and cider-making, and the circa 1134 diary of pilgrim Aymeric Picaud in the Codex Calixtinus noting that Basques were notable for growing apples and drinking cider. Historically, almost all Basque farm-houses had an apple orchard, and numerous Basque surnames and place-names are linked to apple growing or cider production, with the earliest such reference from 1291 listing a place called Sagarro.

Most sagardotegis are located in the province of Gipuzkoa, especially around Hernani and Astigarraga, but they can be found in all provinces of the Basque Country. Traditional tolare-sagardotegis (press-cider houses) are found in towns across Álava, Biscay, Gipuzkoa, Labourd, Lower Navarre, and Navarre.

The towns of Astigarraga (20+), Hernani (10+), Urnieta (5+), Oiartzun (5) and Usurbil (5) have the highest concentrations. In Spanish a sagardotegi is called sidrería; in French, cidrerie or chai à cidre. The cider season opens after the maturation of last year's cider, with aficionados sampling different houses.