Baking Codexery

Baking powder

A chemical leavener that releases gas to lighten baked goods.

Baking powder is a dry chemical leavening agent, a mixture of a carbonate or bicarbonate and a weak acid, combined with a desiccant like cornstarch to prevent the base and acid from reacting prematurely. When moistened and heated, it releases carbon dioxide gas through an acid–base reaction, which expands bubbles in a batter or dough, increasing the volume and lightening the texture of baked goods. The first commercially sold baking powder was Borwick's Baking Powder, launched in England in 1842 by George Borwick, who spent eleven years perfecting a formula passed to him by his father-in-law, a chemist, as a yeast substitute for home baking. The following year, Alfred Bird developed his own single-acting baking powder, which releases all its carbon dioxide as soon as it is dampened. In 1856, Eben Norton Horsford, the Rumford Professor at Harvard University, received an American patent for monocalcium phosphate for baking powder, and in the 1860s he developed the first double-acting baking powder, which releases some carbon dioxide when dampened and more when heated. Baking powder is used instead of yeast where fermentation flavors are undesirable, where the batter lacks the elastic structure to hold gas bubbles for more than a few minutes, or to speed production. Because carbon dioxide is released faster through the acid–base reaction than through fermentation, breads made with chemical leavening are called quick breads. The introduction of baking powder revolutionized baking by minimizing time and labor, leading to new types of cakes, cookies, biscuits, and other baked goods. Most commercial baking powders contain sodium bicarbonate and one or more acid salts, such as monocalcium phosphate, sodium aluminium sulfate, sodium acid pyrophosphate, or cream of tartar. Double-acting powders use both fast-acting acids, which react at room temperature, and slow-acting acids, which react when heated, increasing reliability by making the time between mixing and baking less critical. Starch components like cornstarch, flour, or potato starch serve as desiccants to absorb moisture, prolong shelf life, and improve flow and measurement accuracy.

first_american_patent
Eben Norton Horsford, 1856, for baking powder using monocalcium phosphate

Lore & Background

The first commercially sold baking powder was Borwick's Baking Powder, launched in England in 1842 by George Borwick, who developed his formula as a yeast substitute for home baking. The following year, in 1843, pharmacist Alfred Bird developed his own single-acting baking powder, which releases all carbon dioxide as soon as it is dampened. In 1856, Eben Norton Horsford, the Rumford Professor at Harvard University, received an American patent for baking powder using monocalcium phosphate. The first double-acting baking powder was developed later, by the Calumet Baking Powder Company in the late 1880s or early 1890s.

Reader's Guide

Baking powder's significance lies in its ability to leaven baked goods quickly and reliably without the fermentation flavors or time required by yeast. It works through an acid–base reaction between a bicarbonate base (commonly sodium bicarbonate) and one or more acid salts, releasing carbon dioxide gas. The inclusion of a desiccant like cornstarch prevents premature reaction and improves shelf life. Double-acting baking powders, which contain both fast-acting and slow-acting acids, provide a second rise in the oven, making the timing between mixing and baking less critical. This type is now the most widely available. The introduction of baking powder was revolutionary in minimizing the time and labor required to make breadstuffs, leading to the creation of new types of cakes, cookies, biscuits, and other baked goods. It is used instead of yeast where fermentation flavors would be undesirable or where the batter lacks the elastic structure to hold gas bubbles for more than a few minutes.

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