Baking Codexery

Baguette

Long, thin French bread defined by law and cultural tradition.

Baguette

Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons

The baguette is a long, thin loaf made from a simple, lean dough, with both its recipe and size regulated by French law. It stands out for its length and crisp crust. In 2022, the traditional skill and culture of baguette-making were added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Much of the baguette’s history is uncertain, but several developments shaped it. Long, stick-like breads gained popularity in 18th-century France. In the early 19th century, bakers began using “gruau,” a refined Hungarian flour. Viennese steam-oven baking arrived in Paris in 1839 via August Zang, and in 1867, Adolf Ignaz Mautner von Markhof’s compact yeast was introduced at the Universal Exposition. The term “baguette” first officially described a specific bread in an August 1920 regulation for the Seine department, which set a minimum weight of 80 grams and a maximum length of 40 centimeters. None of these events alone mark the baguette’s invention, but together they define the modern loaf. The word itself means “wand,” “baton,” or “stick,” and was first recorded as a bread type in 1920.

Outside France, the baguette is often seen as a national symbol, but long loaves have been associated with France for centuries. Loaves six feet long were noted in the 19th century, and earlier, long, wide loaves existed since the time of Louis XIV. Steam ovens, which heat a stone or firebrick deck with gas and inject steam, help create a lighter crust and a glazed surface. August Zang’s early 19th-century steam oven also introduced Vienna bread and the croissant, leading some French sources to credit him with the baguette’s origin.

In April 1944, France launched Le Grand Prix de la Baguette, a competition where nearly 200 bakers are judged on baking, appearance, smell, taste, and crumb. The winner receives €4,000 and supplies the French president with daily bread for a year. After the World Wars, bakers shifted to whiter, softer loaves, using shorter fermentation and more additives, which reduced flavor. Average bread consumption fell from 600 grams per day in the early 1900s to 170 grams per day in 1986. In 1993, the French Parliament passed Le Décret Pain, which requires “pain maison” to be fully kneaded, shaped, and baked on-site, and bans pre-made dough for traditional French baguettes. Since 1994, Paris has awarded the Grand prix de la baguette de tradition française for the city’s best baguette.

Several myths surround the baguette’s origins. One claims Napoleon ordered the shape so soldiers could carry bread in their uniforms. Another says it was created to prevent Paris metro workers from carrying knives to cut bread, as the easily ripped loaf eliminated the need. Some see it as a post-Revolution “Bread of Equality,” making a single loaf available to all classes. A further story holds that an October 1920 law banning bakers from working before 4 am made traditional round loaves impractical for breakfast, and the slender baguette solved the problem.

field
Bread
nationality
French
known_for
Long, thin loaf with crisp crust; symbol of French culture
typical_length
About 65 cm (26 in), up to 1 m (39 in)
typical_diameter
About 5 to 6 cm (2–2+1⁄2 in)
typical_weight
Around 250 g (8+3⁄4 oz)

Quick Facts

Country
France
Main Ingredient
Flour, yeast, salt
Variations
Bánh mì
Calories
263
Other
Glycaemic load 47 (100g)

Facts from the source article.

Lore & Background

Much of the history of the baguette is speculation, but some facts can be established. Long, stick-like breads in France became more popular during the 18th century. French bakers started using 'gruau,' a highly refined Hungarian high-milled flour, in the early 19th century. Viennese steam oven baking was introduced to Paris in 1839 by August Zang, and compact yeast was introduced in 1867. The word 'baguette' first appears to define a particular type of bread in a regulation of the department of the Seine in August 1920: 'The baguette, having a minimum weight of 80 g and a maximum length of 40 cm, may not be sold for a price higher than 0.35 francs apiece.' No one of these events constitutes 'the invention of the baguette,' but together they define the modern baguette.

Several origin myths exist. Some say Napoleon created the baguette to allow soldiers to carry bread more easily. Other stories credit baguettes as an invention to stop French metro workers from carrying knives to cut their bread. Another account states that in October 1920, a law prevented bakers from working before 4 am, making it impossible to make traditional round loaves in time for breakfast; the slender shape of the baguette solved the problem because it could be prepared and baked more quickly. The law in question appears to be one from March 1919, though some say it took effect in October 1920.

Reader's Guide

The baguette is closely connected to France, though it is made worldwide. Outside France, it is often considered a symbol of French culture, but the association of France with long loaves long predates it. Long, wide loaves had been made since the time of King Louis XIV, long thin ones since the mid-18th century, and by the 19th century, some were far longer than today's baguette. In 1993, the French Parliament passed Le Décret Pain, which placed strict guidelines on what pain traditionnel français is allowed to be made of, banning pre-made dough from being used for traditional French baguettes. Since 1994, the city of Paris awards the Grand prix de la baguette de tradition française de la ville de Paris for the best baguette in the city. The baguette's legacy includes its inscription on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists in 2022, recognizing the artisanal know-how and culture of its production. The average consumption of bread in France fell from 600 grams/day in the early 1900s to 170 grams/day in 1986, yet the baguette remains a staple of French cuisine and daily life.

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