Terrantez
A rare Madeiran white grape revived from near extinction.
Terrantez, also known as Cascal, is a rare white Portuguese wine grape variety historically significant on the island of Madeira for producing sweet fortified wine. Once nearly extinct due to low yields and 19th-century vine diseases, it has seen a slow revival with government support, though plantings remain limited.
History
Terrantez is a white grape that ranks among Madeira's five classic noble varieties, joining Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, and Malvasia. Nobody knows exactly where it came from, but experts suspect it originally came from mainland Portugal. In the 1700s and early 1800s, growers planted it widely across the island. Then disaster struck twice: first the oidium fungus in 1851, then phylloxera in 1872. By 2006, authorities reported that almost no Terrantez vines remained on Madeira. Over the past decade or so, winemakers have shown renewed interest. To help bring the grape back, the local Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft Institute (IVBAM) has since 2016 provided free vineyard advice and a subsidy of €1.30 for every kilogram of Terrantez grapes harvested. The numbers tell the story: just 1.52 hectares were planted in 2012, rising to 4.08 hectares by 2019 across 22 growers. By 2021, plantings reached 5.64 hectares, shared among 36 growers.
Regions
Terrantez is most widely associated with the wines of Madeira, though its use on the island declined until a recent revival. Some plantings exist in the Azores, the Portuguese island chain northwest of Madeira, and in the Minho province on the Portuguese mainland, where it is known as Cascal. Ampelographer Paul Truel has speculated that the mainland variety may actually be a different variety, though this has not been conclusively determined. As of 2021, Madeiran plantings were mainly in Câmara de Lobos (2.02 ha), Calheta (1.11 ha), and Santa Cruz (1.15 ha). Other municipalities each had less than 0.4 ha, and Machico had none.
Wine styles
Terrantez is made in either a medium dry or medium sweet style. The grape can yield rich, full-bodied wines with a very fragrant aroma. Wine expert Oz Clarke notes that older bottles of Madeira Terrantez can age gracefully, developing lengthy finishes and multiple layers of complexity. Because production is low, the wine is almost always bottled as a single vintage, though Henriques & Henriques and Blandy's both offer 20-year-old versions.
Synonyms and other varieties
Terrantez has gone by many names besides Cascal, including Morrao, Murrao, Pe de Perdiz, Pe de Perdrix, Pied de Perdix, and Terrantes. Other white Portuguese grapes share some of these names and might be related, though this hasn't been proven. Folgasao is sometimes called Terrantez da Madeira or Terrantez de Madere, and Donzelinho Branco can be called Terrantez or Terrantes. The red grape Alicante Bouschet also uses the synonym Pe de Perdiz, while Malbec is known as Pied de Perdix.
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