Alor Setar
State capital of Kedah, Malaysia.
via Wikipedia: Nasi lemak · see source
Alor Setar, also known in Kedah Malay as Loqstaq, serves as the capital of Kedah, Malaysia. It is the state’s second-largest city, trailing Sungai Petani, and ranks among the key urban centers on Peninsular Malaysia’s west coast. The city features the Alor Setar Tower, the third-tallest tower in the country. Its position along the primary travel route between Malaysia and Thailand has historically made it a significant transportation hub on the northern Malay Peninsula. Alor Setar lies along Malaysia’s longest expressway, 430 km from Kuala Lumpur and 79 km north of George Town, Penang. From Thailand, it is reachable via the Padang Besar–Sadao Highway, 51.8 km from Sadao and 106 km from Hat Yai.
Originally founded as Kota Setar in 1785, the city has long been Kedah’s capital, making it a core cultural center for Kedahan Malays. It also played a pioneering role in Malayan transportation history: its railway station opened in 1915, followed by its airport in 1929. Alor Setar houses the Central State Administration Centre and serves as the administrative hub of Kota Setar District. As of the 2020 census, the city covers 666 km² and has over 400,000 inhabitants. Local governance falls under the Alor Setar City Council. The city is the birthplace of two pivotal Malaysian prime ministers: Tunku Abdul Rahman, the nation’s founding father (in office 1957–1970), and Mahathir Mohamad, the longest-serving prime minister (1981–2003 and 2018–2020).
**Etymology** The name combines two Malay words: *Alor* (“small stream”) and *Setar* (*Bouea macrophylla* Griff., known as the marian plum, gandaria, or plum mango), a tree related to the mango. On 21 December 2003, during a ceremony proclaiming it a city, the name was changed to Alor Star. The original name was restored on 15 January 2009.
**History**
*Origin* Alor Setar was established on 30 December 1735 by Kedah’s 19th ruler, Sultan Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Adilin II, and became the state’s eighth administrative center since the Kedah Sultanate’s founding in 1136. Earlier centers included Kota Bukit Meriam, Kota Sungai Emas, Kota Siputeh, Kota Naga, Kota Sena, Kota Indera Kayangan, and Kota Bukit Pinang. The pre-existing settlement was a small village, but the sultan found the area strategically located, drawn by its lush greenery and its position where two estuaries of the Kedah River converged. After agreement with several Kedahan nobles, a new town called “Kota Setar” (the “Town of Setar”) was instituted, named after the *Bouea macrophylla* trees found there.
*Period of Turbulence* A new administrative institution was built in the settlement, with the sultan residing in Istana Kota Setar. In 1770, the capital suffered a major attack when the Bugis armada, led by Raja Haji, destroyed both the Istana Kota Setar and the Balai Besar (Grand Hall). In 1771, the British, represented by Francis Light, and Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah agreed to halt Bugis influence in Kedah. During the coronation of Ahmad Tajuddin Halim Shah II on 17 March 1805, Siamese forces occupied the capital, forcing the sultan to retreat to Penang and later Malacca. The settlement stagnated for 20 years. The sultan was restored to the throne in 1842, and the capital was temporarily moved to Kota Kuala Muda before returning to Kota Setar.
*Recovery and Growth* In October 1883, Englishman James F. Agustin arrived at Kuala Sungai Kedah (now Kuala Kedah), about 10 km from the capital. He and other English explorers journeyed inland along the Kedah River, meeting several Malay settlements. Upon reaching Kampung Kota Setar, he befriended locals who invited him to the sultan’s palace. Agustin admired the palace’s architecture and its landscape of stalk trees. Well received by the sultan, both parties exchanged goods. Agustin’s visit spurred more active, direct trade between the area and outside commercial powers. The city attracted cosmopolitan trading activity from British, Indian, Chinese, and other local and regional merchants. The town grew from a small settlement into a bustling hub, accommodating population growth, commerce, and administration. The British were particularly drawn to Kota Setar’s potential. Gradually, it evolved into Kedah’s commercial, transportation, and communication hub. The name changed from Kota Setar to Alor Setar, reflecting the small stream (“Alor” in Malay) frequented by Malay traders from neighboring states. The name Kota Setar was retained for a sub-district under Alor Setar.
*19th and 20th Century* Other significant events around the turn of the 20th century include the reunification of Perlis and Setul (now Satun) with Kedah by the Siamese in May 1897, held at Balai Besar. Both provinces had been separated from Kedah in 1821. The event was attended by the Crown Prince of Kedah, Tuanku Abdul Aziz, representing Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah. In 1904, the city witnessed the grand wedding of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah’s five children, lasting three months and costing an estimated 3 million ringgit.
- State
- Kedah, Malaysia
- Notable natives
- Tunku Abdul Rahman and Mahathir Mohamad
Verified Timeline
Lore & Background
The pre-existing settlement was originally a small village, but the sultan found the area strategic, covered in lush greenery and at the convergence of two estuaries of the Kedah River. His visit spurred direct trade relations, attracting British, Indian, Chinese, and other merchants. The town prospered into a bustling commercial, transportation, and communication hub. Note: While the settlement existed well before, the specific year 1785 is not widely established as its founding date.
Reader's Guide
Alor Setar holds significance as the state capital of Kedah. Its location along the main travel corridor from Malaysia to Thailand makes it a major transportation hub.
Did You Know?
- Alor Setar existed as a settlement long before it was formally established as Kota Setar; no single founding year like 1785 is widely recognized.
- The city's name comes from the Malay words 'Alor' (small stream) and 'Setar' (a tree related to the mango).
- Alor Setar Tower stands approximately 165.5 meters tall, placing it lower than several other towers in Malaysia.
- The city was proclaimed a city on 21 December 2003 and was renamed Alor Star, but reverted to Alor Setar on 14 January 2009.
The Yellow Rice of Alor Setar
In the culinary landscape of northern Kedah, the city of Alor Setar is most closely associated with a distinctive local interpretation of Malaysia's national dish. Known locally as nasi lemak kuning—literally "yellow nasi lemak"—or alternatively as nasi lemak royale, this variant sets itself apart through its striking golden-yellow rice. Unlike the standard white-rice version found elsewhere in the Malay world, the Alor Setar preparation takes on this warm hue. The yellow rice is typically eaten with curries, a characteristic that aligns with the broader northwestern Peninsular Malaysian tradition of incorporating curry into nasi lemak preparations. This variant is not confined to the city alone; it is prevalent throughout parts of northern Kedah and extends into the neighbouring state of Perlis.
Naming and Local Distinction
Because both the traditional banana-leaf-wrapped version and the yellow-rice variant are so widely available across northern Kedah and Perlis, the people of Alor Setar and surrounding areas have developed a practical naming convention to tell them apart. Where the rest of Malaysia might simply call the standard preparation "nasi lemak," locals in this region refer to it as nasi lemak daun pisang, meaning "banana leaf nasi lemak." This linguistic distinction reveals how deeply the kuning or royale variant has become embedded in the local food culture—so much so that the traditional form now requires a qualifier to be identified.
A Regional Signature in a Wider Tradition
The Alor Setar variant of nasi lemak is one local expression of a dish that spans the entire Malay world. Nasi lemak is regarded as the national dish of Malaysia and is also native to Singapore, Southern Thailand, parts of Sumatra in Indonesia (particularly the Malay regions of Riau, Riau Islands, and Medan), the Philippines, and even Australia's external territories of Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands. The dish was recognized by Malaysia's National Heritage Department and, in 2024, was successfully listed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List after being nominated alongside roti canai and teh tarik. The dish's roots stretch back to at least 1875, when it appeared in a French-Malay dictionary compiled by the missionary Pierre-Étienne-Lazare Favre, and to a 1909 book by Richard Olaf Winstedt.
From Legend to Breakfast Table
The story behind nasi lemak carries a legend from Malacca: a young girl named Seri accidentally spilled coconut milk into her rice while cooking for her mother, and when asked what she was preparing, she replied, "Nasi le, mak"—"just rice, Mom." The name, literally meaning "fatty rice" in Malay, is understood in this context to convey richness and creaminess. In the broader tradition, the rice is soaked in coconut milk and steamed with pandan leaves for a distinctive aromatic flavour. As a breakfast staple, nasi lemak is sold in hawker centres and roadside stalls across Malaysia and Singapore, with ready-packed versions called nasi lemak bungkus available at prices as low as RM2.00. In Alor Setar, the dish occupies this same essential morning-meal role, but the local yellow-rice-and-curry identity gives it a character that residents of northern Kedah and Perlis recognize as distinctly their own.
Gallery
Frequently Asked Questions
Who is Alor Setar?
Alor Setar is the state capital of Kedah in Malaysia, serving as the administrative and governmental heart of the northernmost Malaysian state.
What is Alor Setar's main role in the region?
Sitting directly on the primary overland route connecting Malaysia to Thailand, Alor Setar has long functioned as a key transportation hub for the northern Malay Peninsula.
How does Alor Setar compare in size to other Kedah cities?
By the 2020 census figures, it ranks as the second-most populous city in Kedah, trailing only Sungai Petani.
Which famous people call Alor Setar home?
The city is the birthplace of two landmark figures in Malaysian politics: Tunku Abdul Rahman, the nation's first prime minister, and Mahathir Mohamad, who later served as a long-tenured head of government.
Why does Alor Setar matter on the broader Malaysian map?
It combines the weight of a state capital with its strategic position as the gateway corridor to Thailand, while also claiming two of the country's most influential political figures as natives.
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