Jeju Island
South Korea's largest island, formed by a submarine volcano approximately 2 million years ago.
via Wikipedia: Jeju Island · see source
Jeju Island is the largest island in South Korea, spanning 1,833.2 square kilometers—about 1.83% of the nation’s total land area. It sits in the Korea Strait, roughly 82.8 kilometers south of the Korean Peninsula, and together with smaller nearby islands forms the bulk of Jeju Province. The island was created around 2 million years ago when a submarine volcano erupted. Its climate is subtropical, with winter temperatures rarely dipping below freezing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes, is located here. Tourism drives much of the local economy, making the island a major vacation spot.
The indigenous Jeju people have inhabited the island since the early Neolithic period. Their language, Jeju, is classified as critically endangered by UNESCO. The island also preserves one of Korea’s most intact shamanic traditions.
Jeju is oval-shaped, stretching 73 kilometers east to west and 31 kilometers north to south, with a gentle slope rising toward Hallasan at its center. The main road runs 181 kilometers, and the coastline measures 258 kilometers. Key landmarks include Gimnyeong Beach in the north, Songak Mountain in the south, Suwolbong in the west, and Seongsan Ilchulbong in the east.
Historically, the island has gone by many names. Before Japan’s 1910 annexation, Europeans commonly called it Quelpart (or Quelpaert), a name possibly derived from a Dutch ship, the *quelpaert de Brack*, sighted around 1642. The Portuguese, the first Europeans to see it, named it Ilha de Ladrones (Island of Thieves). Other historical names include Doi, Dongyeongju, Juho, Tammora, Seomna, Tangna, Tamna, Junweonhado, Taekseungnido, Samdado, Sammudo, and Cheju (used until July 2000). During Japanese occupation, it was known as Saishū. The name “Fungma island” appeared in a 1655 atlas by missionary M. Martini.
Numerous plants and animals have scientific names reflecting their origin on Jeju. Examples include the earwig *Anechura quelparta*, the spider *Atypus quelpartensis*, and the gastropod *Bekkochlamys quelpartensis*—all using the epithet *quelpartensis*. Others use *jejuensis*, such as the moth *Stegasta jejuensis* and the ant *Camponotus jejuensis*. Still others use *chejuensis*, like the lily *Lycoris chejuensis* and the mouse *Apodemus chejuensis*.
The landscape is dominated by Hallasan, a volcano rising 1,947 meters—the highest peak in South Korea. The island also features about 360 *oreum*, small extinct volcanoes or parasitic cones, many now popular attractions like Geomunoreum, Yongnuni Oreum, and Geum Oreum. The island formed through volcanic eruptions starting about 2 million years ago, with major phases around 1.2 million, 700,000, and 300,000 years ago. Hallasan itself formed roughly 100,000 years ago, and lateral eruptions about 25,000 years ago created the *oreum*. Volcanic activity then ceased, and weathering and erosion shaped the island further.
About 12% of Jeju—224 square kilometers—is covered by *gotjawal*, a local term for forests on rugged ‘a‘a lava that resisted cultivation until the 21st century. This pristine forest supports a unique ecology and serves as the main groundwater source for the island’s half-million residents, as rainwater seeps through lava cracks into the aquifer. Some researchers consider it an internationally important wetland under the Ramsar Convention, though it has not yet been officially designated as such.
- location
- Korea Strait, 82.8 km south of the Korean Peninsula
- area
- 1,833.2 km² (707.8 sq mi)
- highest_point
- Hallasan, 1,947 m (6,388 ft)
- population_note
- Home to approximately half a million people
- climate
- Humid subtropical (Cfa)
- world_heritage_site
- Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes
- language
- Jeju language (critically endangered per UNESCO)
Lore & Background
The Jeju people are indigenous to the island, and it has been populated by modern humans since the early Neolithic period. The Jeju language is considered critically endangered by UNESCO. It is also one of the regions of Korea where Shamanism is most intact. Historically, the island has been called by many different names including Doi, Dongyeongju, Juho, Tammora, Seomna, Tangna, Tamna, Quelpart, Quelparte or Quelpaert Island, Junweonhado, Taekseungnido, Samdado, Sammudo, and Cheju (spelling until 7 July 2000). Before the Japanese annexation in 1910, the island was usually known as Quelpart to Europeans; during the occupation it was known by the Japanese name Saishū. The first European explorers to sight the island, the Portuguese, called it Ilha de Ladrones (Island of Thieves, modern Portuguese Ladrões).
Reader's Guide
Jeju is a volcanic island, dominated by Hallasan: a volcano 1,947 metres (6,388 ft) high and the highest mountain in South Korea. The island measures approximately 73 kilometres (45 mi) across, east to west, and 31 kilometres (19 mi) from north to south. The island also has around 360 oreum: small extinct volcanoes or parasitic cones. The island formed by volcanic eruptions approximately two million years ago, during the Pleistocene epoch. The island consists chiefly of basalt and lava. An area covering about 12% (224 square kilometres or 86 square miles) of Jeju Island is called gotjawal, a local term for forests. This area remained uncultivated until the 21st century, as its base of 'a'a lava made it difficult to develop for agriculture. Because this forest remained pristine for so long, it has a unique ecology. The forest is the main source of groundwater and thus the main water source for the half million people of the island, because rainwater penetrates directly into the aquifer through the cracks of the 'a'a lava under the forest. Numerous plants and animals have scientific epithets which describe them as 'coming from' or being found on Jeju-do, including those with names like quelpartensis, jejuensis, and chejuensis.
Did You Know?
- The island was formed by the eruption of a submarine volcano approximately 2 million years ago.
- The Jeju language is considered critically endangered by UNESCO.
- The island has around 360 oreum: small extinct volcanoes or parasitic cones.
- Gotjawal forest covers about 12% (224 square kilometres) of Jeju Island and is the main source of groundwater for the half million residents.
- In January 2016, a cold wave forced the cancellation of 1,200 flights on Jeju Island, stranding approximately 90,300 passengers.
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