Cognac

Cognac is a type of brandy that takes its name from the commune of Cognac, France, and is made in the nearby departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime, a legally defined wine-growing zone. This region is split into six districts, each producing its own style of cognac. The spirit operates under France’s AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) system, meaning its production and labeling must follow strict legal rules.

The most common grape used is Ugni blanc, also called Saint-Émilion locally. The wine itself is dry, acidic, and thin—often described as nearly undrinkable—but it works well for distillation and aging. Only certain grape varieties are allowed. For a cognac labeled as a true cru, at least 90% of the grapes must be Ugni blanc, Folle blanche, or Colombard, with up to 10% from Folignan, Jurançon blanc, Meslier St-François (also known as Blanc Ramé), Sélect, Montils, or Sémillon. For cognacs not carrying a cru name, the rules are slightly looser: at least 90% must come from Colombard, Folle blanche, Jurançon blanc, Meslier Saint-François, Montils, Sémillon, or Ugni blanc, with up to 10% from Folignan or Sélect.

After pressing, the grape juice ferments for two to three weeks using native wild yeast; no sugar or sulfur can be added. The resulting wine is about 7 to 8% alcohol. Distillation happens twice in traditional Charentais copper pot stills, whose design and size are legally controlled. The clear spirit that comes out, called eau de vie, is around 70% alcohol by volume.

The eau de vie must then age in French oak barrels from Limousin, Tronçais, Allier, or Nevers—mostly the first two—for at least two years before sale. Most cognacs spend much longer in wood. As it ages, it interacts with the oak and air, losing about 3% of its volume each year through evaporation (more alcohol than water, since alcohol is more volatile). This loss is called *la part des anges*, or the angels’ share. After more than fifty years in barrel, the alcohol content drops to about 40%. At that point, the cognac is moved to large glass bottles called bonbonnes for future blending. Since oak barrels stop adding flavor after four or five decades, longer aging may not improve the spirit.

Blending is key. The age of a cognac is determined by the youngest component in the mix. Most blends combine eaux de vie of different ages and, for larger producers, from different areas. This marriage of spirits creates a complexity that a single-distillery or single-vineyard eau de vie would lack. Each cognac house has a master taster (*maître de chai*) who handles blending to maintain a consistent house style and quality—similar to how whisky or non-vintage Champagne is blended. A few small producers, like Guillon Painturaud and Moyet, skip this blending of different ages, aiming for a purer flavor. Hundreds of vineyards in the Cognac AOC region sell their own cognac, also blended from different years, but these are single-vineyard products that vary slightly by year and producer taste, lacking the predictability of big commercial brands. Depending on their marketing success, small producers may sell directly to individuals, bars, or restaurants, with the rest bought by larger houses for their blends.

Official quality grades, set by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), are based on the youngest brandy in the blend. V.S. (Very Special) or three stars means at least two years in cask. V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) or Reserve requires at least four years. Napoléon requires at least six years (not to be confused with “the Cognac of Napoleon,” a nickname for Courvoisier). X.O. (Extra Old) requires at least ten years as of April 2018—this rule was originally set for 2016 but delayed due to low stocks. The Napoléon label, once unofficial, is now used specifically for blends with a minimum age of six years that do not qualify for higher grades.

Cognac is often served in a snifter, a glass with a large tapered bowl and short stem. The drinker places a hand under the bowl to warm the spirit, which releases more aroma.