Mojave Road

History

The Mohave Trail was a path used by Native Americans living in the desert, connecting water sources across the Mojave Desert. It started at the Colorado River, went to the Mojave River, and followed that river to Cajon Pass, a gap between the San Bernardino and San Gabriel Mountains, ending at Drum Barracks. Heading west, the trail went from Piute Spring to Indian Well, then Rock Springs, followed by Marl Spring and Soda Spring on Soda Lake’s west side, and finally to the Mojave River’s mouth.

Watering holes were spaced roughly 60 to 70 miles apart. In 1776, Spanish Franciscan missionary Francisco Garcés traveled the trail with Mohave guides after leaving Juan Bautista de Anza’s expedition. In 1806, José María de Zalvidea, a Franciscan from Mission San Gabriel, crossed it and reportedly converted five Mohave people near what is now Hesperia. Later, the trail was used by raiders who stole from California missions and ranchos, with Spanish and Mexican soldiers chasing them.

In 1826, Jedediah Smith led the first U.S. citizens to travel the Mohave Trail. Between 1829 and 1830, Mexican traders from New Mexico created the Old Spanish Trail trade route; Armijo’s route met the Mohave Trail at the Mojave River’s mouth near Soda Lake. In 1830, the Mohave Trail became part of the Old Spanish Trail’s Main Route, connecting from the north in Piute Valley and going west to the Mojave River mouth, with a later shortcut from Salt Spring through Bitter Spring and Spanish Canyon to a spot east of Yermo called Fork of the Road. Starting in 1849, the Mormon Road, a winter route to California, was heavily used by Forty-niners and later travelers.

The route today

The eastern end of the Mojave Road begins at the edge of the Colorado River near Beale's Crossing, north of Needles, and the western terminus lies beyond the Rasor Off-Highway Vehicle Area and the Afton Canyon Natural Area near Manix Wash. The following markers are listed east to west. At mile 0 is the Colorado River, where the trail begins near Beale's Crossing. Beaver Lake, a lake or slough of the Colorado River during spring floods, was passed on the north 2.5 to 3 miles from the river crossing; it has since dried up due to upstream dams.

Piute Creek, with Piute Spring as its source, is a desert oasis at mile 23, and Fort Piute, built in 1867 by US infantry, is located there. Lanfair Valley, at mile 34, has had cattle ranches since 1880. Indian Hill and Indian Well are about a mile north of the road at mile 40. A Joshua Tree Forest at mile 47 makes the road very narrow.

Rock Spring, at mile 49, is the biggest watering hole along the road, with a stream flowing down large boulders and an old cabin. Government Holes, at mile 52, has an old concrete trough. Cedar Canyon, at mile 56, is the highest point at 5000 feet elevation. Marl Spring at mile 70 has a primitive concrete trough.

Historic designations

The Mojave Road, designated California Historic Landmark No. 963 in 1985 and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2021, began as a network of Mohave Indian trails across the desert. In 1826, Jedediah Smith became the first non-Indian to reach California overland from the interior using these paths. The route was improved into a military wagon road in 1859 and served as a key connection between Los Angeles and the East until a railway arrived in 1885.

Camp Cady, marker No. 963-1, was established by U.S. Dragoons in 1860 to protect the Mojave Road and the Salt Lake Road from Indigenous peoples defending their lands. A mud redoubt formed its main building, with improved structures built half a mile west in 1868. The military withdrew in 1871 after peace was achieved, and the roads' protection boosted California's economy by enabling travel, trade, and mail delivery.