Strudel

Lore & Background

The origins of strudel are sometimes linked to the Hungarian rétes, though the idea that rétes developed from Turkish baklava during Ottoman rule is disputed and not widely accepted as canon. Traditionally, the Hungarian rétes was made using a method similar to baklava, layering paper-thin sheets of dough with filling. The strudel, with its distinctive rolled form, developed in the Austrian Empire around the turn of the 18th century. The oldest strudel recipes—a Millirahmstrudel and a turnip strudel—date from 1697 and are found in a handwritten cookbook at the Wienbibliothek im Rathaus.

Traditional strudel pastry, known as Strudelteig, is made from flour with a high gluten content, water, oil, and salt, with no sugar added. The dough is worked vigorously, rested, then rolled out and stretched by hand very thinly, often with the help of a clean linen tea towel. Purists say it should be so thin that you can read a newspaper through it; a legend holds that an Austrian Emperor's perfectionist cook decreed it should be possible to read a love letter through it. The thin dough is laid out on a tea towel, the filling is spread on it, and the dough is rolled up carefully with the towel and baked.

Strudel is also associated with Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, particularly of Eastern European Jews. Savory cabbage strudel is especially linked to Hungarian Jewish cuisine. In Hungary, rétes is consumed at Farsang or New Year, as it is believed to bring good luck and a long life.

Reader's Guide

Strudel holds significance as a versatile pastry that spread across Central Europe from the Austrian Empire, reflecting the region's culinary exchanges. Its development from Hungarian rétes and Turkish baklava illustrates the movement of food traditions along trade and conquest routes. The pastry's distinctive hand-stretched dough technique, requiring skill and patience, sets it apart from other layered pastries. Strudel's adaptability is seen in its wide range of fillings—from sweet apple, quark, and poppy seed to savory cabbage, spinach, and meat—making it suitable for both desserts and main courses. In Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, strudel became a staple, with observant Hungarian Jews using oil in the dough for holidays like Simchat Torah and Purim. The pastry's cultural impact extends to language: in Hebrew, the @ symbol is colloquially called 'shtrudel' due to its spiral shape. The oldest known recipes from 1696 provide a historical anchor, while modern variations continue to be enjoyed across Europe and beyond. Strudel's legacy lies in its ability to bridge sweet and savory, tradition and innovation, and multiple national cuisines.