Romanian Cuisine Codexery

Pastrami

Cured, smoked, and steamed beef brisket of Jewish-Romanian origin.

Pastrami

Pastrami is a cured meat central to Jewish-American cooking, with roots in the Jewish communities of Romania and nearby areas. While it’s most often made from beef brisket, the process starts with brining the raw meat, then partially drying it, coating it in herbs and spices, smoking it, and finally steaming it. This meat is a staple of New York City’s deli scene, where it’s famously served hot on rye bread as a pastrami sandwich.

The word “pastrami” comes from Yiddish *pastrame*, which likely came from Romanian *pastramă*, itself thought to be borrowed from Turkish *pastirma*. Pastrami is directly linked to Turkey, with its source in the historical region of Bessarabia (modern Romania and Moldova), and influences from Turkey, the North Caucasus, or Armenia—though it differs from Turkish basturma in ingredients and preparation. In Romania, pastrama isn’t served on rye bread sandwiches, and it’s not identical to Armenian or Turkish versions. Similar foods appear across the Balkans and Levant, and pastrami’s culinary origin might be separate, simply taking its name from the Turkish dish.

Pastrami entered the United States during the second half of the 19th century, brought by Jewish immigrants from Bessarabia and Romania, who called it *pastrame*. The spelling “pastrami” likely came from imitating the American English word “salami.” According to Patricia Volk, her father Sussman Volk—a kosher butcher and Lithuanian immigrant—made the first pastrami sandwich in the U.S. in 1887, using a recipe from a Romanian friend. He sold the sandwiches from his butcher shop, and their popularity led him to turn it into a restaurant. This story is considered apocryphal but is backed by Marcus Eli Ravage. By January 1895, “Roumania pastrami” was being sold in Butte, Montana.

To prepare pastrami, the meat is cured in brine, then coated with a spice mix that can include garlic, coriander, black pepper, paprika, cloves, allspice, and mustard seed. After smoking, it’s steamed until the connective tissues turn into gelatin.

Type
Cured meat
Origin
Jewish community of Romania and surrounding regions
Introduced to us
Second half of the 19th century
Common meats
Beef brisket, beef navel, beef plate, turkey, goose
Key spices
Garlic, coriander, black pepper, paprika, cloves, allspice, mustard seed
Serving style
Hot, typically on rye bread sandwiches

Lore & Background

Pastrami's name comes from Yiddish pastrame, probably borrowed from Romanian pastramă, itself thought to be borrowed from Turkish pastirma. The source of pastrami in the historical region called Bessarabia (present-day Romania and Moldova) is thought to be in Turkey, the North Caucasus, or Armenia, though pastrami has differences in ingredients and preparation from the similar Turkish basturma.

Reader's Guide

Pastrami holds a significant place in American culinary history as a defining element of Jewish-American and New York City cuisine. Its introduction by Romanian Jewish immigrants in the late 19th century reflects the adaptation of Old World traditions to New World ingredients—goose was replaced by cheaper beef navel or brisket, creating a distinctively American product. The pastrami sandwich, particularly pastrami on rye, became a staple of delicatessen restaurants and a cultural icon. The preparation method—brining, coating with a spice mix including garlic, coriander, black pepper, paprika, cloves, allspice, and mustard seed, then smoking and steaming—produces a tender, flavorful meat. While American pastrami is now commonly made from beef brisket, beef round, or turkey, New York pastrami is generally made from beef navel, which is more marbled with fat and has a denser texture. The dish also influenced regional variations, such as the pastrami cheeseburger introduced by Greek immigrants in Salt Lake City in the early 1960s. Pastrami's legacy endures as a beloved comfort food and a symbol of immigrant ingenuity.

Did You Know?

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is Pastrami?

Pastrami is a cured and smoked meat that originated in the Jewish communities of Romania and neighboring regions before being carried to the United States in the latter half of the 19th century. It is most commonly prepared from beef brisket, though other cuts like navel, plate, turkey, and goose are also used.

What is Pastrami's role in the culinary world?

Pastrami holds a starring position in New York City's deli culture, where it is traditionally served hot and piled onto rye bread as a sandwich. Its bold, spiced flavor makes it a go-to comfort food in that scene.

How does Pastrami come into existence?

The process begins with brining raw meat, followed by partial drying, a coating of spices such as garlic, coriander, paprika, cloves, allspice, and mustard seed, then smoking, and finally steaming to finish. This multi-step method gives Pastrami its distinctive depth of flavor and tender texture.

Where does Pastrami's name come from?

The English word traces back to the Yiddish term pastrame, which itself is believed to derive from the Romanian word pastramă. That Romanian term is thought to have been borrowed from the Turkish word pastirma, pointing to a longer cross-cultural history.

Why is Pastrami important to Romanian cuisine?

Pastrami represents a key link between Romanian meat-curing traditions and the broader Jewish diaspora's culinary contributions. Its journey from Romanian kitchens to American delis showcases how a regional preparation can become an internationally recognized dish while retaining its original spice profile and preparation methods.

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