Camaraou noir

History

Ampelographers believe the name Camaraou derives from the Béarnese word camarau, possibly from the Gascon cama meaning "leg, trunk," referencing the practice of growing vines up trees. Another possibility links the name to the commune of Camalès in Hautes-Pyrénées. A late 18th century document mentions a Camarau grape in Pyrénées-Atlantiques and the País Vasco, but that description likely referred to the white Camaraou blanc. The first definitive mention of Camaraou noir appeared in the Viala & Vermorel catalogue from 1901 to 1910.

Wine regions

Camaraou noir is still a permitted variety in the AOC wines of Jurançon and Béarn, but it is very rarely planted there. Most of the world's vines are now in northwestern Spain's Galicia region, where the grape is permitted in the DO wines of Rías Baixas. Known there as Espadeiro and Caíño Redondo, it has a long history in the Pontevedra and Ourense provinces, and in 2008 it covered 137 hectares, mostly blended with Mencía and Caíño tinto.

Relationship to other grapes

Due to synonym similarities, Camaraou noir is often confused with the Portuguese wine grape Espadeiro, but DNA analysis in 2003 confirmed they are separate and that most Espadeiro grown in Galicia, as well as the variety Caiño Redondo, are actually Camaraou noir. DNA profiling also clarified that Camaraou noir and Camaralet de Lasseube (Camaraou blanc) are related but distinct, not color mutations. Both appear related to the Jurançon grapes Ahumat, Arrouya noir, and Penouille.

Did You Know?

• Camaraou noir is a late-ripening variety that can be very vigorous and high yielding if not controlled by winter pruning or green harvesting.
• The vine produces small berries in very large, compact clusters that can be susceptible to mildew.
• Traditionally, Camaraou noir is trained up tree trunks, an ancient practice dating back to Roman winemaking days.