Risotto

Risotto is a creamy Italian rice dish made by slowly cooking rice in broth, which can be meat, fish, or vegetable based. Butter, onion, white wine, and Parmesan cheese are common additions. Saffron was originally used for both flavor and its signature yellow color. In Italy, risotto is typically a first course, though it is sometimes served as a one-course meal with other ingredients.

Rice cultivation in southern Italy dates back centuries, eventually spreading to the Po Valley in the north, where marshy conditions were ideal. Legend has it that a Netherlandish glass painter working on Milan’s cathedral, who used saffron as a pigment, added it to a rice dish at a wedding feast. Risotto is thought to have originated in what is now Lombardy. The first identifiable recipe dates from 1809, calling for rice sautéed in butter with sausages, bone marrow, onions, and broth, with saffron added gradually. A recipe named “risotto” appears in an 1854 cookbook by Giovanni Vialardi, assistant chef to kings, but the exact inventor of Milanese risotto remains unknown. The rice varieties now associated with risotto were developed in the 20th century, starting with Maratelli in 1914.

The rice used for risotto is a high-starch, round, medium- or short-grain white rice that absorbs liquid and releases starch, making it stickier than long-grain varieties. Principal Italian varieties include Arborio, Baldo, Carnaroli, Maratelli, Padano, Roma, and Vialone Nano. Carnaroli, Maratelli, and Vialone Nano are considered the best and most expensive, each with slightly different properties: Carnaroli is less prone to overcooking, while Vialone Nano cooks faster and absorbs condiments better. Other varieties like Baldo, Originario, Ribe, and Roma lack the creaminess of traditional risotto and are better suited for soups, other rice dishes, or desserts. Terms like *comune*, *semifino*, and *fino* refer to grain size and shape, not quality.

Risotto requires constant attention. The rice is not rinsed, boiled, or drained, as washing removes needed starch. It is first cooked briefly in a soffritto of onion and butter or olive oil to coat each grain in fat, a step called *tostatura*. White wine is added and absorbed. Then, boiling stock is added gradually in small amounts while stirring constantly. This stirring forces the grains to rub together, releasing starch and creating a creamy texture. Once cooked, the pot is removed from the heat, and refrigerated balls of grated Parmesan and butter are vigorously beaten in for extra creaminess. The dish may be taken off the heat a few minutes early to finish cooking with residual heat.

Properly cooked risotto is rich and creamy without cream, thanks to the starch. It has al dente resistance and separate grains, with a traditional fluid, wavy consistency called *all’onda*. It is served on flat dishes, spreading out easily without excess watery liquid around the edges. Many regional Italian variations have their own names.