Cassoulet
Rich stew of beans and meats from southern France.
Cassoulet is a rich, slow-cooked stew that originated in southern France, specifically in the town of Castelnaudary in the Aude department of the Occitanie region. According to tradition, the dish was invented in 1355 during the Hundred Years' War, when the town was under siege by the English. In medieval times, it was referred to as an *estouffet*, and the current name is a diminutive of the Languedoc word *cassolo*, meaning a cooking pot, though some sources trace it to "Cassol d'Issel," a clay baking pot from the nearby town of Issel. The *Dictionnaire de l'Académie française* dates the term *cassoulet* to no earlier than the 19th century.
The principal ingredient is now the haricot bean, but in the medieval period, broad beans were used. Sources disagree on when haricots replaced them: some say they arrived from the New World via Spain in the 16th century, while others claim they were not used in France until the 19th century. The dish is traditionally cooked in an earthenware pot called a *cassole* or *toupin*. The composition of a cassoulet is a subject of dispute, with local traditions dictating the meats. The Michelin Guide notes that every town claims its own authentic version. Prosper Montagné divided the main varieties into "the Trinity": the "Father" from Castelnaudary (pork and sometimes preserved goose), the "Son" from Carcassonne (mutton and partridge), and the "Holy Ghost" from Toulouse (Toulouse sausage, mutton, and duck or goose). Other variants include one from Montaubon spiced with tomato purée and a fish version using salt cod. A sprinkling of breadcrumbs to form a crust is common to most recipes. In 1970, La Grande confrérie du cassoulet de Castelnaudary was established to promote the dish, and in 2000, it helped create a three-day annual festival, the Fête du Cassoulet.
- first_recorded_name
- 19th century (first attested in print)
Lore & Background
In medieval times it was called an estouffet. The current name is a diminutive of the Languedoc word *cassolo*, meaning a cooking pot, though Elizabeth David suggests it comes from 'Cassol d'Issel', the clay pot made in Issel near Castelnaudary. The haricot bean became the principal ingredient only later; medieval versions used broad beans (*favolles*). Sources disagree on when haricots arrived: the *Oxford Companion to Food* says the 16th century via Spain from the New World, while *Larousse Gastronomique* states they were not used in France until the 19th century. The dish is a rich stew of haricot beans, sausage, pork, mutton, and preserved goose, spiced with garlic and herbs. It originated in Castelnaudary in the Aude department of Occitanie, with local variants in other towns. The three main types are the Castelnaudary version (pork, sausages, and sometimes preserved goose), the Carcassonne version (leg of mutton and partridge in season), and the Toulouse version (adding Toulouse sausage, mutton, and duck or goose). A sprinkling of breadcrumbs to form a crust is common to most recipes. The dish is traditionally cooked in an earthenware pot called a *cassole* or *toupin*.
Reader's Guide
Cassoulet is a cornerstone of French rustic cooking, celebrated for its regional variations and communal traditions. The dish is the subject of 'infinite dispute' according to Mastering the Art of French Cooking authors, with every town claiming the one authentic recipe. Prosper Montagné divided the main varieties into 'the Trinity': Castelnaudary (the Father) uses pork and sometimes preserved goose; Carcassonne (the Son) adds leg of mutton and partridge; Toulouse (the Holy Ghost) includes Toulouse sausage, mutton, and duck or goose. Other variants include Montaubon with tomato purée, and a fish cassoulet with salt cod. The dish is traditionally sprinkled with breadcrumbs to form a crust. Cassoulet is considered nourishing country fare, not haute cuisine, and stories persist of a single pot being extended for years by deglazing and reusing the base.
Did You Know?
- The name 'cassoulet' is a diminutive of the Languedoc word 'cassolo', meaning a cooking pot.
- The term 'cassoulet' is first attested in print in the 19th century.
- In medieval times, the dish was referred to as an 'estouffet'.
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