Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse is a traditional Provençal fish soup that originated in the port city of Marseille. The name itself comes from a compound of two Provençal verbs meaning "to boil" and "to reduce heat," or "simmer." The dish was originally created by Marseille fishermen, who used bony rockfish that they could not sell to restaurants or markets. A traditional bouillabaisse contains at least three kinds of fish, typically including red rascasse, sea robin, and European conger, though it may also feature gilt-head bream, turbot, monkfish, mullet, or European hake. Shellfish and other seafood such as sea urchins, mussels, velvet crabs, spider crabs, or octopus are common additions, while more expensive versions sometimes include langoustine, though this was not part of the original fishermen’s dish.

History

What distinguishes bouillabaisse from other fish soups is its use of Provençal herbs and spices in the broth, the selection of bony local Mediterranean fish, the method of adding the fish one at a time and bringing each to a boil, and the way it is served. In Marseille, the broth is traditionally served first in a soup plate with slices of bread and rouille—a mayonnaise made from olive oil, garlic, saffron, and cayenne pepper—followed by the fish presented separately on a large platter. Alternatively, as Julia Child suggested, the fish and broth may be brought to the table separately and combined in large soup plates.

Marseille bouillabaisse

Recipes vary widely among families in Marseille, and local restaurants often dispute which versions are most authentic. In 1980, eleven Marseille restaurateurs collaborated to create the Bouillabaisse Charter, which codified both ingredients and preparation methods. According to this charter, an authentic Marseille bouillabaisse must include rascasse, a bony rockfish found in the calanques and nearshore reefs.

It usually also contains European conger and sea robin. The Michelin Guide Vert identifies four essential elements: the presence of rascasse, the freshness of the fish, olive oil, and excellent saffron. Julia Child noted that the defining flavor comes from the Provençal soup base—garlic, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, fennel, saffron, thyme, bay, and often dried orange peel—combined with a mix of lean, firm, soft, gelatinous fish and shellfish.