New Zealand Cuisine Codexery

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival

Annual New Zealand festival celebrating unusual West Coast foods.

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival

Eli Duke · CC BY-SA 2.0

Every March, the small town of Hokitika on New Zealand’s West Coast hosts a festival built around a menu of eyebrow-raising foods—huhu grubs, lamb’s testicles, and horse semen among them. The Hokitika Wildfoods Festival began in 1990, dreamed up by local winemaker Claire Bryant, who made wine from gorse flowers and rose petals and wanted to showcase the region’s unique flavours.

The first event, held that March, coincided with Hokitika’s 126th anniversary celebration and was organised by Heritage Hokitika. It occupied a newly developed heritage area on Gibson Quay, with 30 stalls drawing 1,800 people. Celebrity chef Alison Holst judged the offerings. Traditionally scheduled for the second Saturday of March—the driest time on the West Coast—the festival mostly enjoyed fine weather, though a squall flattened the tent at the third event in 1992. By then attendance had climbed to 3,800, prompting a move in 1993 to Cass Square, which could hold 10,000. In 1994, for the first time, the festival was opened by the local Member of Parliament, Damien O’Connor, rather than the Mayor of Westland, a decision that drew criticism from one councillor who called it “propaganda by the Labour Party” involving a “foreigner.”

After the first two festivals were run by the South Westland Community Activities Trust, the Westland District Council took over in 1993. Mike Keenan became festival coordinator, working with Lance Rae and a volunteer committee that grew to 17 members by 2005. Festival currency was dropped after 1994. By 1995, sponsor Monteith’s helped the event fill Cass Square, and the following year it peaked at 90 stalls. Westpower, a sponsor from the start, was taken over by Trustpower in 1999.

Attendance kept rising, hitting 22,500 in 2003—more than six times Hokitika’s population of 3,500. That year, over 100 kilograms of whitebait and 19,000 litres of beer were sold. More than half the visitors came from Canterbury, 81 per cent from the South Island, only 2 per cent from Auckland, and 9 per cent from overseas. At its height, the festival drew 25,000 under-age revellers, who smashed windows, lit beach bonfires, and left litter across central Hokitika; 20 were arrested, and some called for the event to be cancelled. In response, ticket sales were capped at 15,000, a downtown liquor ban was imposed, and all alcohol was sold in plastic cups. In 2012, 68 arrests were

started
1990
founder
Claire Bryant
location
Hokitika, New Zealand
venue
Cass Square (since 1993)
peak attendance
22,500 (2003)
notable foods
huhu grubs, lamb's testicles, horse semen

Lore & Background

The first festival in March 1990 coincided with Hokitika's 126th anniversary and was run by Heritage Hokitika. It took place on Gibson Quay with 30 stalls and attracted 1,800 people. Alison Holst was the celebrity judge. The festival has traditionally been held on the second Saturday in March. By 1992 visitor numbers had grown to 3,800, and a squall blew down the festival tent. In 1993 the festival moved to Cass Square, which has a capacity of 10,000. In 1994 the festival was opened by West Coast Member of Parliament Damien O'Connor rather than the Mayor of Westland, prompting one councillor to decry the involvement of a 'foreigner' as 'propaganda by the Labour Party'.

Reader's Guide

The Hokitika Wildfoods Festival is significant for its celebration of unusual and locally foraged foods, drawing visitors from across New Zealand and overseas. At its height in 2003, attendance peaked at 22,500, though Hokitika's population was only 3,500. The festival has faced challenges, including under-age revellers causing damage, leading to a cap on ticket sales at 15,000 and a downtown liquor ban. Despite financial losses in some years, the Westland District Council continued to run the festival due to its economic benefit, estimated at $6.5 million a year for the West Coast region in 2012. The festival creates around 47 full-time-equivalent jobs and supports community fundraising. It received a New Zealand Tourism Award in 2005 in the Innovation category. After 29 years of council management, the festival was outsourced in 2019 to Destination Westland.

Did You Know?

A Small Town's Big Idea: Origins and Early Years

The festival was born in March 1990 when local wine producer Claire Bryant, who made gorse-flower and rose-petal wine, wanted to celebrate the West Coast's flavours and produce. The inaugural event coincided with Hokitika's 125th anniversary and was organized by Heritage Hokitika in a newly developed heritage area on Gibson Quay in downtown Hokitika. Thirty stalls lined the space, and 1,800 people turned out. Celebrity judge Alison Holst presided over the proceedings. The timing was deliberate: the second Saturday in March traditionally marks the driest stretch of weather on the West Coast. By the third festival in 1992, attendance had nearly doubled to 3,800, though a squall brought down the festival tent that year. The growing crowd prompted a move in 1993 to Cass Square, which could hold up to 10,000 people. That same year marked a political shift: for the first time, the West Coast Member of Parliament, Damien O'Connor, opened the event rather than the Mayor of Westland, drawing criticism from a councillor who called the involvement of a "foreigner" Labour Party propaganda.

The Menu of the Absurd

The festival's signature identity rests on its deliberately outrageous food offerings. Huhu grubs—the larvae of the large New Zealand beetle Prionoplus reticularis—are pulled from chopped-up rotten logs on site, sometimes served live to the brave or the inebriated, but more often grilled and described as nutty and meaty. "Westcargots" are prepared from the introduced European snail Cornu aspersum, gathered by locals from their own gardens and prepped by Westland High School teachers or the Hokitika Girl Guides and Brownies. Other staples include sheep testicles dubbed "mountain oysters," pigs' nipples and snouts on sticks, and stallion semen squirted from a syringe, with a microscope available for examining live spermatozoa. One year the Hokitika Rotary Club served home-brewed moonshine through a sheep drenching gun. The broader menu has also featured chicken feet, jellied fish eye shots, lamb tails, crocodile and kangaroo bites, baby octopus, fish heads, pig pizzle, sheep brain pâté, sweetbreads, wild pork, whitebait fritters, pāua, pipi, wasp larvae ice cream, deer and bull semen, gorse-flower wine, earthworms, possum, and pig's trotters.

Scaling Up: Management, Growth, and the 2003 Peak

After early years under the South Westland Community Activities Trust, Westland District Council took over operations in 1993, appointing Mike Keenan as festival coordinator alongside Lance Rae and a voluntary committee that grew to 17 members by 2005. Sponsorship came from Westpower, later absorbed by Trustpower in 1999, and from Monteith's. By 1996 the festival had reached its peak of 90 stalls. After a decade of steady growth, attendance hit 22,500 in 2003—against a Hokitika population of just 3,500. That year saw over 100 kilograms of whitebait and 19,000 litres of beer sold. More than half the visitors came from Canterbury, 81 percent from the South Island, only 2 percent from Auckland, and 9 percent from overseas. The festival earned a New Zealand Tourism Award in the Innovation category in 2005. Keenan led the event for 21 years until the Council disestablished its events department in 2014. Subsequent managers included Ashley Cassin, Sarah Brown, and Amber Popaite of Destination Westland, which took over operations in 2019 after 29 years of Council management.

Economic Engine and Community Lifeline

A 2012 BERL study valued the festival's annual benefit to the West Coast region at $6.5 million. It was estimated to create 47 full-time-equivalent jobs and boost accommodation demand at the tail end of summer, when Hokitika had only about 600 hotel and motel rooms in 2003, prompting residents to rent out private rooms. Around 60 community groups ran stalls or provided services for fundraising, collectively raising over $110,000; the Karamea Community Hall, for instance, refurbished its kitchen with proceeds from its stall. Each visitor stayed an average of 2.5 days and spent roughly $540. The festival's largest age group was 21-to-29-year-olds, and 90 percent of attendees came from outside the West Coast region—an unusually high proportion for a national event. After five years of losses, the festival returned to profitability in 2016, having cut expenses by $120,000 and revived its beach pre-party and after-party. The 2022 edition was postponed to the following year due to the COVID-19 pandemic in New Zealand.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Who is Hokitika Wildfoods Festival?

An annual March event held in the small West Coast town of Hokitika, New Zealand, that celebrates the region's most unusual and off-putting local foods. It was conceived in 1990 by local winemaker Claire Bryant, who wanted to put the area's distinctive flavours on the map.

What are Hokitika Wildfoods Festival's powers/role?

Its signature 'abilities' include serving dishes like huhu grubs, lamb's testicles, and horse semen to a curious public. The event has operated out of Cass Square since 1993 and once drew a peak crowd of 22,500 visitors in 2003.

How does Hokitika Wildfoods Festival's story end?

There is no final chapter—the festival recurs every March and has continued running since its 1990 debut. Its most dramatic 'climax' came in 2003, when attendance hit a record 22,500 people.

Why is Hokitika Wildfoods Festival important?

It gave a small West Coast town a national and international identity built around culinary curiosity, turning unusual local ingredients into a major tourism draw. Founder Claire Bryant originally wanted to showcase the unique flavours of the region, and the event has become Hokitika's defining annual celebration.

Where does Hokitika Wildfoods Festival operate?

The festival is based in Hokitika on New Zealand's West Coast, and since 1993 it has been staged at Cass Square. Its very first edition in March 1990 took place in a newly developed heritage area on Gibson Quay, coinciding with the town's 126th anniversary.

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