Pla ra
A traditional Thai fermented fish seasoning with strong smell.
Pla ra (Thai: ปลาร้า, pronounced [plāː ráː]; also called ปลาแดก, pronounced [pàː dɛ̀ːk], in Northeastern Thai) is a traditional Thai seasoning made by fermenting fish with rice bran or roasted rice flour and salt in a sealed container for at least six months. This type of fermented fish seasoning appears in Cambodian, Lao, Mon, Thai, and Vietnamese cooking, and is similar to Laos’s padaek. Its strong smell is often considered unpleasant, and its taste is salty and sour, shaped by the salt content and lactic acid produced during fermentation. Historically, pla ra was common in the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The French diplomat Simon de la Loubère, who visited Siam in the late 17th century, noted that rice and fish were the main foods. He observed that Siamese people did not care for fresh fish, preferring fermented fish, which was as popular as spicy dips like nam phrik. When he returned to France, he brought some pla ra with him. Pla ra is categorized by its main ingredients. One type, fermented with roasted rice powder, turns yellow with a soft texture and a distinct smell; it is often used as a paste and is typically made in central Thailand, usually from striped snakehead fish or catfish. Another type, fermented with rice bran, is clear black with a stronger smell and softer, smaller fish; it is common in northeastern Thailand, used as an ingredient or eaten raw. Pla ra sot is made with fresh fish, giving a salty flavor with slight sourness from lactic acid. Pla ra lom uses dead fish, which undergo autolysis and develop an unpleasant smell, or fish soaked in water for 12–24 hours until softer. Production methods vary. One method has two phases: first, fish is fermented with salt until soft; then, it is fermented with rice bran or roasted rice powder for scent and flavor. Another approach ferments fish with salt and coarsely pounded, toasted, raw glutinous rice for at least six months. The process begins by cutting fish into small pieces and fermenting them with salt. After 24 hours, the fish is packed tightly into a container (usually a pot), filled with salt water, and sealed for three months. Then, the first-stage pla ra is mixed with rice bran or roasted rice powder, repacked, and sealed for two months or more. In 2018, Thailand’s Ministry of Agriculture issued regulations to ensure quality and hygiene in commercially made pla ra.
- Key bacterium
- Assorted species of Pediococcus, primarily P.
- Prevalence of p halophilus
- Other Pediococcus species also have a role in the taste and aroma, but not as much as P.
Lore & Background
Pla ra was a common food in the Ayutthaya Kingdom. French diplomat Simon de la Loubère, who visited Siam during the mid-Ayutthaya period (late 17th century CE), wrote about pla ra, explaining that the main source of food was rice and fish, and that Siamese people did not like to eat fresh fish. He noted that fermented fish was as popular as spicy Thai dip or nam phrik, and when he returned to France, he brought some pla ra with him. Pla ra is classified by its main ingredients. One type, fermented with roasted rice powder, becomes yellow with a soft texture and distinctive smell, mostly used as a paste and produced in central Thailand, often with striped snakehead fish or catfish. The other type, fermented with rice bran, has a clear black color and stronger smell, with softer and smaller fish, mostly found in northeastern Thailand as an ingredient or raw food. Pla ra that uses fresh fish is called pla ra sot, while pla ra lom uses dead fish with an autolysis reaction until it has an unpleasant smell, or fish soaked in water for 12–24 hours until softer.
Reader's Guide
Pla ra is significant as a traditional seasoning deeply rooted in the culinary history of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, as documented by French diplomat Simon de la Loubère in the late 17th century. Its production involves fermenting fish with salt and rice bran or roasted rice powder for at least six months, with methods varying by region. The fermentation process relies on bacteria such as Pediococcus halophilus, which is found in 90% of market samples and is assumed to play an important role in taste and aroma. Other bacteria like Staphylococcus, Micrococcus, and Bacillus act in protein degradation. Pla ra is used in dishes such as nam phrik pla ra, a chili fish sauce made with roasted green pepper, garlic, shallots, and boiled fish meat, often eaten raw or as a side dish. However, when used uncooked, it can be easily contaminated, with studies finding E. coli and S. aureus in some nam phrik samples, though cooking destroys the pathogens. The Thai Ministry of Agriculture published regulations in 2018 to ensure quality and hygiene of commercially made pla ra. Its legacy includes not only culinary use but also unconventional applications, such as being used in 'stink bombs' by vendors during a 2010 eviction protest in Bangkok's Khlong Toei District.
Did You Know?
- Pla ra is fermented for at least six months with salt and rice bran or roasted rice flour.
- The bacterium Pediococcus halophilus is found in 90% of market samples and is key to its taste and aroma.
- French diplomat Simon de la Loubère wrote about pla ra in the late 17th century during the Ayutthaya Kingdom.
- In 2010, bags of pla ra were thrown at Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva's house during a protest.
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