Murri (condiment)

Lore & Background

Historical recipes describe two types of murrī. The Iraqi-style, from the 10th-century Kitab al-Tabikh and the 13th-century Kitab Wasf al-Atima al-Mutada, was made by wetting ground flatbread, barley flour (budhaj flour), and salt, then allowing it to ferment. The Maghrebi style, detailed in Kitab Wasf, used only barley flour and was flavored with carob, fennel stems, citron, pine nuts, mixed spices, and bitter orange wood, with a consistency similar to treacle. Kitab Wasf also mentions a 'Byzantine murri' made with toasted bread and caramelized honey.

Some Arabic lexicographical texts suggested murrī might be of foreign origin, leading modern scholars to speculate it could derive from the Greek halmyris ('a salty thing') and relate to the Roman condiment garum. Charles Perry notes that while both are fermented, salty liquid seasonings, it is unknown whether the technique or culinary use originated with the Greeks. David Waines clarifies that the most common form of murrī was made from cereal grain, not fish, despite confusion linking it to garum. A 13th-century Latin text, Liber de Ferculis et Condimenti, mistranscribed the recipe by omitting the fermentation stage.

Reader's Guide

Murrī held a central role in medieval Arab cuisine, appearing in nearly every substantial dish as a salty, umami-rich seasoning. Its production was traditionally an annual household undertaking beginning at the end of March and lasting 90 days. The process involved creating a fermented starter (budhaj) by mixing barley and water into a dough, wrapping it in fig leaves for 40 days to allow surface molds, bacteria, and yeasts to develop, then drying, grinding, and mixing it with water, salt, and additional flour for another 40-day fermentation. The resulting dark mahogany paste was diluted to form the liquid condiment. A faster method involved baking a loaf of barley flour and salt, crumbling it, soaking it, then combining it with a boiled mixture of raisins, carob, and spices. The condiment's legacy includes scholarly comparisons to soy sauce, and its mention in historical texts highlights the sophistication of medieval fermentation techniques. The confusion over its nature—whether derived from fish or grain—reflects the challenges of interpreting ancient recipes, but the grain-based version remains the best-documented form.

Did You Know?

• Murrī was made using a fermented starter called budhaj, which was wrapped in fig leaves for 40 days.
• The traditional production of murrī took 90 days, starting at the end of March.
• Murrī mixed with milk was known as kamakh.
• A 13th-century Latin text mistranscribed the murrī recipe by omitting the fermentation stage.