Applied Art Forms

Lore & Background

Applied Art Forms was launched in October 2020 after Guy Berryman spent three years developing the brand, which operates under Ratino Limited. The headquarters and main studio were established in Amsterdam due to Berryman's contacts in the region. Berryman shares design and creative direction with Marcel Verheijen. Marketing began through a website selling clothes to friends, later evolving into larger campaigns that included music playlists curated by special guests. Rather than following the traditional fashion calendar, the brand maintains a permanent catalogue with occasional updates and additions. Between 2021 and 2024, distribution expanded to physical stores in Tokyo, Singapore, and London via Dover Street Market, with additional retail collaborations in Berlin, Los Angeles, and Milan. In July 2025, the brand ran a Paris Fashion Week showroom, and its flagship store opened in Amsterdam four months later. In March 2026, Berryman stated he would step down as creative director.

Berryman studied mechanical engineering and architecture at University College London before dropping out to pursue music with Coldplay, a background he described as 'adjacent to product design'. His creative process involves reimagining functional garments from the 1940s–1960s with an inclination for Japanese streetwear silhouettes, resulting in oversized, wide-bodied, and loose-fitting clothes. Designers such as Nigel Cabourn, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, and Raf Simons have been cited as references. Although items are tailored to the male body, the brand ultimately switched its presentation to unisex. Core garments include the AM2-1 Modular Parka with detachable parts, the DM1-1 Japanese Cargo inspired by Swedish dead stock trousers, and the WU1-4 Parachute Bag made from military parachutes. In 2023, Applied Art Forms collaborated with Master & Dynamic on wireless headphones based on the Apollo missions. The brand also launched the Canal House Line, an artisanal collection using antique textiles, whose signature piece is the C.H.L Boro Liner woven in 19th-century boro fabrics. Berryman later met English designer Hannah Martin, and their shared appreciation for industrial and punk aesthetics led to the Vanitas jewellery series, drawing influence from vanitas paintings.

Reader's Guide

Applied Art Forms occupies a distinctive position in contemporary fashion by bridging the gap between celebrity-led brands and serious design credibility. Its founder, Guy Berryman, leveraged his background in engineering and architecture to create a label that prioritizes functionality and longevity over trend-driven cycles. The brand's refusal to follow the traditional fashion calendar, instead offering a permanent catalogue with occasional updates, reflects a deliberate departure from industry norms. This approach, combined with subtle color palettes and minimal logos, has earned it praise from outlets such as Esquire and Hypebeast for avoiding the usual pitfalls of celebrity brands. The brand's expansion through Dover Street Market and other select retailers in global fashion capitals, along with its Paris Fashion Week showroom in 2025, signals its growing influence. Collaborations with Master & Dynamic and Hannah Martin demonstrate a willingness to extend its design philosophy into accessories and jewelry. By sourcing durable, natural materials and reimagining vintage utilitarian pieces for a unisex audience, Applied Art Forms has carved out a niche that appeals to those seeking adaptable, timeless clothing. Its inclusion on Highsnobiety's list of best Dutch fashion brands in 2025 further cements its reputation within the industry.

Did You Know?

• The brand's AM2-1 Modular Parka features detachable parts and was highlighted by Mr Porter for its adaptable design.
• Applied Art Forms collaborated with Master & Dynamic in 2023 to create wireless headphones inspired by the Apollo missions.
• The C.H.L Boro Liner, part of the Canal House Line, is woven from boro fabrics dating back to the 19th century.
• A shirt bearing the phrase 'Love is the drug' gained popularity after Coldplay's Chris Martin purchased it.