Turkish coffee

Turkish coffee is a method of making coffee that uses an unlined pot called a *cezve* (often referred to as an *ibrik* elsewhere) and extremely finely ground beans, with no filtering involved. The drink goes by various names throughout the Middle East, the Balkans, and the Caucasus.

**Preparation**

Any coffee bean can be used—there is no specific “Turkish coffee bean”—though Arabica is considered best, while robusta or a blend are also common. Because the grind is so fine, the roast level matters a great deal; medium or medium-dark roasts work best, while light or dark roasts tend to produce poor results. The fine grind also causes the grounds to go stale quickly after grinding. The coffee can be ground at home with a manual grinder designed for this purpose (electric home grinders are not suitable), ordered freshly ground from a coffee merchant, or bought pre-ground (though less fresh).

Coffee and water, plus sugar if desired, are brought just to a boil in the *cezve*. As soon as the mixture starts to froth, it is removed from the heat; sometimes a bit of the frothy coffee is ladled into small cups (about 90 ml, traditionally porcelain *kahve fincanı*). The coffee is usually brought to a boil two more times to build up the froth, then served. Sugar is specified when ordering: unsweetened (*sade kahve*), with little sugar (*az şekerli kahve*), moderate sugar (*orta şekerli kahve* or *orta kahve*), or sweet (*çok şekerli kahve*). It is often accompanied by a small sweet treat, like Turkish delight. Cardamom, mastic, salep, or ambergris may be added for flavor. Much of the fine powder stays suspended in the liquid and is drunk; some settles at the bottom and is left behind.

**According to connoisseurs**

A 2013 paper for the Oxford Food Symposium by Tan and Bursa outlined the traditional art of making and serving Turkish coffee:

- **Roasting:** Green Arabica beans are medium-roasted in small batches over steady heat in a shallow, wrought-iron pan. The timing must be precise, and the beans are then moved to the next stage. - **Cooling:** The beans cool and absorb excess oil in a wooden box; the type of wood (walnut is considered best) is said to affect the taste. - **Pounding or grinding:** The beans must become a very fine powder (75–125 microns) for proper foam and mouthfeel. Strict traditionalists prefer hand-pounding in a mortar, though this makes uniform fineness hard to achieve; more commonly, a brass or copper mill is used, though it produces drier particles. - **Brewing:** A proper *cezve* is essential—a flask of thick forged copper, wider at the base than the neck, available in various sizes. Cold water, at least 7 grams of ground coffee per person, and sugar (if desired) are added, then heated. The tapered shape helps create foam and retain aromas. The coffee is heated until it just boils; “close monitoring and delicate timing” are needed for the thickest possible froth. Some believe the copper improves the taste. - **Serving:** The *cezve* has a lip for pouring. While cup design may not affect flavor, connoisseurs say porcelain cups with thin rims improve mouthfeel. A long tradition values serving coffee in beautiful, often heirloom cups. A glass of water is served alongside, to be sipped first to cleanse the palate. Cultural traditions also include storytelling and fortune-telling.

Though modern practice may skip some steps (e.g., buying pre-roasted, pre-ground coffee), the rituals and paraphernalia—like the smell of roasting beans—are said to engage the imagination and have a psychological effect.

**History**

Coffee drinking spread through the Islamic world in the 16th century, moving from the Hijaz to Cairo, then to Syria and Istanbul. The coffee tree was first commercially cultivated in Yemen, having been introduced from Ethiopia’s rainforests, where it grew wild. For a long time, Yemen held a world monopoly on coffee bean exports (Carl Linnaeus noted they deliberately destroyed beans’ ability to germinate). From 1538 to 1636, the Ottoman Empire controlled Yemen’s southern coast, including the famous coffee port Mocha. In the 18th century, Egypt was the Ottoman Empire’s richest province, trading chiefly in Yemeni coffee, with Cairo merchants moving it from Yemen to Islamic markets. Coffee was in use in Istanbul by 1539; a legal document records that Ottoman admiral Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha’s house had a coffee chamber. The first coffeehouse in Istanbul likely opened in 1554 (some say 1551), run by two Arab merchants, Hakem of Aleppo and Shems of Damascus.