Devilled kidneys
Victorian British breakfast dish now often served at supper.
Devilled kidneys are a British dish that originated as a Victorian breakfast item, made from lamb's kidneys prepared in a spiced sauce—a technique known as "devilling." Over time, it has become more common as a supper dish.
The devilling mixture typically includes Worcestershire sauce, mustard, butter, cayenne pepper, salt, and black pepper. While James Boswell mentioned devilling in the 18th century, the dish itself gained popularity as a breakfast choice in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the Edwardian era, it was often served in gentlemen's clubs, alongside other dishes like kedgeree or kippers. In modern times, it is mostly promoted as a supper option.
Several variations exist. British chef Rick Stein combined devilled kidneys with wild mushrooms to create an entrée. The dish appears in many cookbooks, including covers from the Canteen restaurant and The Hairy Bikers. Chef Fergus Henderson called Caroline Conran's version "the best recipe, ever!"
- type
- dish
- origin
- Victorian Britain
- main ingredient
- lamb's kidneys
- sauce components
- Worcestershire sauce, mustard, butter, cayenne pepper, salt, black pepper
- era of popularity as breakfast
- 19th and 20th centuries
- modern usage
- supper dish
Lore & Background
James Boswell described devilling during the 18th century, although it was not until the 19th and 20th centuries that devilled kidneys grew in popularity as a breakfast dish. During the Edwardian era, the dish was typically served in gentlemen's clubs, and was part of a cuisine which also included items such as kedgeree or kippers. In the modern era it has mostly been promoted as a supper dish instead of at breakfast.
British celebrity chef Rick Stein created a recipe combining devilled kidneys with wild mushrooms to create an entrée. The dish is often included in cookbooks, with versions gracing the covers of books by the Canteen restaurant, as well as books by The Hairy Bikers. Chef Fergus Henderson described Caroline Conran's version of devilled kidneys as 'the best recipe, ever!'.
Reader's Guide
Devilled kidneys represent a notable element of British culinary history, particularly associated with Victorian and Edwardian dining. The dish's evolution from a breakfast staple in gentlemen's clubs to a modern supper offering illustrates changing meal patterns and social contexts. Its devilling sauce—a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, butter, cayenne pepper, salt, and black pepper—defines the dish and connects it to a broader tradition of 'devilled' preparations. The dish's continued presence in cookbooks and adaptations by prominent chefs such as Rick Stein, The Hairy Bikers, and Marco Pierre White demonstrates its enduring appeal and adaptability. The endorsement by Fergus Henderson of Caroline Conran's version highlights its respected place in gastronomic circles. As a reference point, devilled kidneys offer insight into British breakfast and supper customs, the culture of gentlemen's clubs, and the persistence of traditional recipes in contemporary cuisine.
Did You Know?
- James Boswell described devilling during the 18th century.
- During the Edwardian era, devilled kidneys were typically served in gentlemen's clubs.
- Chef Fergus Henderson described Caroline Conran's version of devilled kidneys as 'the best recipe, ever!'.
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