Curry in the United Kingdom

Lore & Background

The first curry recipe in Britain appeared in Hannah Glasse's 1747 cookbook, using only black pepper and coriander seeds. Later editions added cream, lemons, ginger, and turmeric. Curry powder was first advertised in 1784 by Sorlie's Perfumery Warehouse on Piccadilly. In the 19th century, many more recipes appeared in popular cookery books, including Eliza Acton's 1845 Modern Cookery for Private Families and Mrs Beeton's 1861 Book of Household Management.

The first curry house opened in London in 1810, founded by Dean Mahomed from the Bengal Presidency. More followed early in the 20th century; Veeraswamy, founded in 1926, is the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in Britain. By the 1970s, over three-quarters of Indian restaurants were owned by people of Bangladeshi origin, mainly from Sylhet. That has since changed, with more restaurants offering South Indian or Punjabi cuisines. Several cities acquired areas known for curry restaurants, including Birmingham's Balti Triangle, London's Brick Lane and Drummond Street, and Manchester's Curry Mile.

Reader's Guide

Curry in the United Kingdom represents a significant cultural and culinary fusion, originating from Anglo-Indian cuisine during the British presence in India. Its adoption into British cooking began in the 18th century and accelerated through the 19th and 20th centuries, becoming a widespread and beloved part of the national diet. By the start of the 21st century, curry was extremely popular, with a curry house in nearly every town. The dish chicken tikka masala was described as a true British national dish by Foreign Secretary Robin Cook. The number of curry houses peaked at some 12,000 in 2016, declining to around 8,000 by 2023 due to a shortage of Indian cooks and the availability of high-quality curry sauces and ready-made meals in supermarkets. Curry has become so integrated that a National Trust café in 2004 served curry while claiming not to serve foreign food, because 'seemingly curry is English'. The British usage of 'curry' has broadened to mean any food from the Indian subcontinent, specifically the British reinvention of Indian cuisine.

Did You Know?

• The first curry recipe in Britain was published in 1747 by Hannah Glasse.
• The first curry house opened in London in 1810.
• By the 1970s, over three-quarters of Indian restaurants in Britain were owned by people of Bangladeshi origin, mainly from Sylhet.
• Chicken tikka masala has been described as a national dish of the United Kingdom.