Berkoukes (dish)

Lore & Background

The tradition of making pasta in North Africa dates back centuries. Medieval Arab-Andalusian and Maghrebi texts describe various types of handmade pasta, including berkoukes. Ibn Razin Tujibi, a 13th-century Andalusian gastronome, documented different pasta preparations in his culinary treatise Fudalat al-Khiwan. Historical sources suggest that in the 12th century, North Africa had as many pasta varieties as couscous preparations, with berkoukes among them. These traditional pastas were valued for being affordable, nutritious, and adaptable to different regional flavors.

The name berkoukes is derived from the Arabic root 'brk,' associated with kneading or rolling, referring to the process of shaping the pasta. The term berkukec (from a prefix augmentative + kukec, meaning 'couscous') is used in the dialect of Ouargla and Mozabite, where it translates to 'large-grain couscous.' The dish is also known by regional variations of its name, such as aïch in some Berber-speaking communities.

Berkoukes is traditionally made by rolling coarse semolina with water and a bit of flour to form large, round granules. These granules are then dried or used fresh in various stews and soups. A typical dish includes handmade semolina pasta, vegetables such as tomatoes, carrots, zucchini, potatoes, and chickpeas, protein often from lamb or chicken (or left vegetarian with legumes), and spices like cumin, paprika, cinnamon, garlic, and bay leaves. The ingredients are slow-cooked in a tomato-based broth until tender, with the pasta added towards the end.

Reader's Guide

Berkoukes holds significance as a traditional North African dish that reflects centuries-old pasta-making practices documented in medieval texts. Its preparation and consumption are tied to cultural events such as family gatherings, special occasions, and religious festivities like Ramadan, and it is also valued as a nourishing winter dish. The dish's name and variations across regions—such as aïch in Berber communities and berkukec in Ouargla and Mozabite dialects—illustrate its deep roots in local culinary identities. Compared to similar dishes like Lebanese moghrabieh, Sardinian fregula, and North African couscous, berkoukes stands out for its large hand-rolled granules and slow-cooked, spiced broth. Its legacy lies in its adaptability and affordability, allowing it to persist as a staple across different North African communities while maintaining a distinct place in the region's gastronomic heritage.

Did You Know?

• In the dialect of Ouargla and Mozabite, berkukec translates to 'large-grain couscous.'
• Ibn Razin Tujibi, a 13th-century Andalusian gastronome, documented pasta preparations including berkoukes in his treatise Fudalat al-Khiwan.