Soave (wine)

History

Soave was a huge hit in the United States during the mid-20th-century Italian wine boom that followed World War II. Big producers like Bolla pushed it hard, and by the 1970s it had overtaken Chianti to become the top-selling Italian DOC wine in the country. That changed by the end of the 1900s, when Pinot grigio and new wines from southern Italy took over its market share. The Soave DOC was established in 1968, and its borders were tweaked and expanded over the following decades.

Back in 1931, Soave and Chianti became the first Italian zones officially recognized by Royal Decree as capable of producing fine wines. That decree set boundaries that match today’s Soave Classico rules. The growing area sits in the eastern part of Vicenza province, in the foothills of the Lessini Mountains. It’s a compact region but cranks out huge amounts of wine because the vineyards are among the most specialized and densely planted in Europe.

In 2001, a separate Soave Superiore DOCG was created for the 2002 vintage, with new borders that included some parts of the original classico zone and left out others—wine expert Oz Clarke called the reasoning unclear and byzantine. The stricter rules on vine training and other practices sparked strong criticism from local growers, and starting in 2003 several voluntarily dropped out to make IGT wines instead.

Wine region

The Soave production zone lies in the eastern hills of Verona province, north of the Serenissima highway between the 18th and 25th kilometres of the Verona-Venezia road. It includes parts or all of the municipalities of Soave, Monteforte d'Alpone, San Martino Buon Albergo, Lavagno, Mezzane, Caldiero, Colognola, Illasi, Cazzano, Roncà, Montecchia and San Giovanni Ilarione. The climate is influenced by autumn mists from the Po Valley, which can bring mold and disease; Garganega's thick skin helps it withstand these conditions.

The classico zone, first delineated in 1927, originally covered 2,720 acres of hillside vineyards. Today, Classico is reserved for grapes from hillside vineyards around Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone. Soils are less fertile than alluvial plains; western classico soils near Soave have high limestone, retaining warmth and producing fuller wines, while eastern soils near Monteforte d'Alpone are decomposed volcanic rock, yielding what Jancis Robinson calls steelier wines.

DOC/G requirements

Only white wine is produced in the Soave region, with a minimum of 70% Garganega. For Soave DOC, up to 30% can be Trebbiano di Soave (also known as Verdicchio and Nestrano), distinct from Trebbiano toscano. DOC rules exclude Trebbiano toscano, which had been allowed up to 15%. Grapes for DOC must be harvested at no more than 14 tonnes/hectare, and the finished wine must have at least 10.5% alcohol. Maximum yield is 10 tonnes/ha, and minimum alcohol is 11.5%. DOCG boundaries extend to some hillside vineyards outside the classico zone; those wines are labeled Soave Colli Scaligeri Superiore DOCG. New DOCG vineyards must use Espalier systems with at least 4,000 vines per hectare; older vines may use Espalier, Pergola Inclinata or Pergoletta Veronese. Soave DOCG may be released only after 1 September of the year following harvest, after at least three months of bottle aging.

Production and style

By the mid-1990s Soave produced around 6 million cases annually, over 80% from local co-operatives sold in bulk to importers for private labels. Much of this wine comes from flat pianura land outside the hilly classico region. Most critically acclaimed Soave comes from hillside classico vineyards, though critics argue the designation has weakened since early-21st-century DOC/G changes. Historically, Soave was medium-bodied, often compared to Chardonnay with a bitter almond note.

In the 1980s and 1990s, styles shifted to lighter, crisper wines closer to Pinot grigio. At the turn of the 21st century, trends moved toward reflecting Garganega's own character. Mary Ewing-Mulligan describes some current Soave as light-bodied, straw-colored, with fresh, fruity notes. In 2009, Cantina di Soave co-operative generated 48% of total DOC production and 43% of Classico.

Many growers have begun bottling their own wine, fueling a shift toward higher standards. Some top independent producers, such as Gini, Pieropan and Tessari, do not use the Soave Superiore DOCG designation, believing well-made Soave Classico DOC wines have slightly less alcohol and extract but are more refined and long-lived.