Frequently Asked Questions
The most-asked questions about euphyllia and lps corals.
What exactly are euphyllia corals?
Euphyllia is a small genus of stony corals in the family Merulinidae, best known for species like torch coral (E. glabrescens) and frogspawn (E. divisa). They are characterized by long, tentacle-like polyps that extend dramatically at night, giving them a distinctive, almost alien appearance under actinic lighting.
How does euphyllia differ from the broader LPS category?
LPS (Large Polyp Stony) is a hobby shorthand grouping all stony corals with relatively large, fleshy polyps, spanning many genera such as Montipora, Pavona, Fungia, and Euphyllia. Euphyllia is just one genus within that wider LPS umbrella, so every euphyllia is an LPS coral but not every LPS coral is a euphyllia.
What are the most iconic species fans talk about?
Torch coral (E. glabrescens) and frogspawn (E. divisa) are the two flagship species most reefers aim to acquire first. Other frequently discussed members include Euphyllia ancora (formerly E. glabrescens var. ancora) and the rarer Euphyllia glabrescens forms like 'blue torch' and 'rainbow torch.'
Where should a beginner start with euphyllia?
Most experienced keepers recommend beginning with a hardy torch or frogspawn colony placed in moderate flow (roughly 200–400 LPH at the coral) and moderate-to-high PAR (around 150–250). Give the coral at least four to six weeks to settle before adjusting parameters or moving it, since euphyllia are notoriously slow to recover from stress.
What are the key water parameters euphyllia need?
Stable alkalinity (8–10 dKH), calcium (420–450 ppm), and magnesium (1300–1400 ppm) form the baseline, while nitrate and phosphate should be kept low but not zero. Temperature between 76–80 °F (24–27 °C) and a pH around 8.1–8.3 round out the most commonly cited targets.
How do euphyllia get their energy—do they need feeding?
Like all zooxanthellae-bearing corals, euphyllia photosynthesize for a large share of their energy, but they also actively capture plankton with their extended polyps. Target-feeding them 2–3 times per week with small pellets, mysis shrimp, or frozen brine shrimp noticeably accelerates polyp growth and coloration.
What lighting do euphyllia prefer?
They thrive under moderate-to-high intensity LED or metal-halide lighting, typically in the 150–300 PAR range depending on the species and individual health. Sudden spikes in intensity or UV can bleach or shrink polyps, so any lighting change should be ramped up over several weeks.
Why do euphyllia polyps retract or 'shrink'?
Retraction is usually a stress signal triggered by aggressive neighbors (especially other LPS or zoanthids), sudden parameter swings, new tank acclimation, or excessive flow hitting the polyps directly. In most cases, isolating the coral, stabilizing water chemistry, and giving it two to three weeks of undisturbed time allows full re-extension.
What are the most common mistakes new euphyllia owners make?
Placing the coral too close to other LPS species, which triggers territorial polyp strikes, is the single most frequent error. The next most common issues are over-feeding (leading to detritus buildup and AOB bacteria), moving the coral repeatedly, and expecting visible growth within the first month.
Why have euphyllia become a centerpiece of the modern reef-keeping hobby?
Their dramatic polyp extension under blue-spectrum lighting, combined with a wide palette of color morphs (green, blue, pink, rainbow), makes them visually striking focal points in mixed reefs. The hobby's shift toward high-output LED systems in the 2010s also made it far easier to meet their lighting needs, spurring a wave of selective breeding and color-varietal trading among enthusiasts.