Handbag
A handled bag for personal items, evolving from ancient pouches.
Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons
A handbag, often called a purse in North American English, is a medium-to-large bag with handles used to carry personal belongings. In some parts of the United States, it is also referred to as a pocketbook. Originally, the word "purse" meant a small bag for coins, but over time it came to describe a larger accessory that holds more than just money.
The term "handbag" first appeared in the early 1900s, initially referring to men's hand luggage. As women's bags grew larger and more elaborate, the name shifted to them. In American English, "purse" and "handbag" are used interchangeably. "Pocketbook" was a common term for a woman's handbag in the mid-20th century U.S.
Bags have been used since ancient times to carry items like flint, tools, supplies, weapons, and coins. Early examples from Egyptian burial sites (c. 2686–2160 BCE) were made of leather with two straps or handles. The ancient Greeks used leather, papyrus, and linen purses called *byrsa* for coins—the root of the English word "purse." The rise of money led to drawstring purses, often hung from a belt or hidden in clothing. A handbag was found with Ötzi, who lived between 3350 and 3105 BC. One of the earliest ornate leather purses came from Anglo-Saxon Britain, dated around 625 CE, discovered at the Sutton Hoo burial site of King Roewald. Though the leather had decayed, its gold ornaments, forty gold coins, a gold belt buckle, and hinged straps remained, symbolizing wealth.
The oldest surviving handbag in the world is the Courtauld bag, believed to have been made in Mosul in the early 1300s, likely belonging to an Ilkhanate noblewoman.
Until the late 1700s, both men and women carried bags. Early modern Europeans used soft fabric or leather purses for coins, worn by both genders; the Scottish sporran is a remnant of this. In the 17th century, young girls learned embroidery for marriage, which also helped them create decorative handbags. By the late 18th century, European fashion favored slender shapes inspired by Ancient Greece and Rome. Women wanted purses that were not bulky, so reticules—made of silk or velvet with wrist straps—became popular in France and then Britain, where they were called "indispensables." Men did not adopt this trend, instead using purses and pockets in trousers.
The modern handbag emerged in England during the Industrial Revolution, partly due to railway travel. In 1841, Doncaster industrialist Samuel Parkinson ordered a set of traveling cases and trunks, insisting on a traveling bag for his wife because her purse was too small and made of unsuitable material. He requested various handbags in different sizes for different occasions, made from the same leather as his cases, to distinguish them from common carpetbags. H. J. Cave (London) produced the first modern luxury handbags, including a clutch and a tote (called a "ladies traveling case"), now displayed in the Museum of Bags and Purses in Amsterdam. H. J. Cave continued selling handbags, but critics argued women did not need them and that such heavy bags would "break the backs of ladies." The company stopped promoting handbags after 1865, focusing on trunks, though they occasionally made bags for royalty or special events, such as the Queen's 2012 Diamond Jubilee. H. J. Cave resumed handbag production in 2010.
When handbags first gained popularity, they were criticized as unfeminine. Sigmund Freud argued that purses symbolized female genitalia and sexuality, and that a woman retrieving items from her purse represented masturbation. Before handbags, women used pockets sewn into their dresses, allowing discreet access to items. Handbags, carried openly, exposed personal belongings. As handbags became mainstream in the 20th century, they shifted from practical items to symbols of wealth and social status. Styles, materials, prices, and brand names grew as important as functionality. Handbags came to be seen as specifically feminine, while men's bags remained practical briefcases—square, hard-edged, plain—containing items associated with the "man's world."
- earliest_known_example
- c. 3350–3105 BC (Ötzi the Iceman's pouch)
- oldest_surviving_handbag
- early 1300s (Courtauld bag)
- first_modern_luxury_handbags
- 1841 (commissioned by Samuel Parkinson)
- field
- Fashion accessory
- known_for
- Carrying personal items; symbol of wealth and status
Lore & Background
The handbag's origins trace back to antiquity. Early examples include a pouch worn by Ötzi the Iceman (c. 3350–3105 BC) and leather bags found in Egyptian burial sites (c. 2686–2160 BCE). The ancient Greeks used leather, papyrus, and linen purses called byrsa to store coins, which is the etymological origin of the word 'purse.' An ornate leather purse from Anglo-Saxon Britain, dated circa 625 CE, was discovered at Sutton Hoo, containing gold coins and ornaments. The oldest surviving handbag in the world today is the Courtauld bag, tentatively believed to have been made at Mosul in the early 1300s, likely belonging to an Ilkhanate noblewoman.
Until the late 1700s, both men and women carried bags. By the late 18th century, women's fashions moved toward slender reticules made of fine fabrics, while men adopted pockets in trousers. The modern handbag emerged during the Industrial Revolution, partly due to railway travel. In 1841, Samuel Parkinson ordered a set of traveling cases and insisted on a leather handbag for his wife, as her purse was too small and fragile. H. J. Cave produced the first modern set of luxury handbags, including a clutch and a tote. Critics initially said such bags would 'break the backs of ladies,' and H. J. Cave ceased promoting them after 1865, though they continued making handbags for royalty and special occasions.
In the 20th century, handbags transitioned from practical items to symbols of wealth and status. They were initially criticized as unfeminine, and Sigmund Freud argued that purses were sexually suggestive. During World War II, rationing led to handbags made from raffia or crocheted yarn. Men's bags, once common, were revived by designers in the 1970s, and by the 1990s a diverse range of men's accessory bags appeared, including messenger bags and satchels.
Reader's Guide
The handbag's significance lies in its evolution from a simple coin pouch to a complex fashion accessory that reflects social status, gender roles, and cultural shifts. Originating in antiquity as a utilitarian item for carrying tools, currency, and personal effects, the handbag became a gendered accessory in the 19th century, when women's bags grew larger and more ornate while men's pockets replaced their purses. The 1841 commission by Samuel Parkinson marked a turning point, establishing the handbag as a distinct, luxury item made of durable materials. This innovation challenged contemporary norms, as critics deemed such bags unnecessary and unfeminine. Over the 20th century, handbags transformed into symbols of wealth and identity, with brand names and styles often outweighing functionality. The accessory also became a site of psychological interpretation, as seen in Freud's controversial analysis. The handbag's legacy includes its role in women's fashion as a marker of class and charity, and its later expansion into men's accessories, reflecting changing gender norms. Today, handbags remain a multi-billion-dollar global industry, with designs ranging from the practical to the opulent, and continue to be objects of both utility and cultural commentary.
Did You Know?
- The oldest known purse dates back more than 5000 years and was a pouch worn by a man, Ötzi the Iceman.
- The Courtauld bag, made in the early 1300s, is thought to be the oldest surviving handbag in the world.
- The term 'handbag' began appearing in the early 1900s and was initially most often used to refer to men's hand-luggage.
- In 1841, Samuel Parkinson ordered the first modern set of luxury handbags from H. J. Cave, including a clutch and a tote.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a handbag?
A handbag is a medium-to-large bag with a handle, designed to carry everyday personal items. In North American English it is commonly called a purse, while some regions of the U.S. refer to it as a pocketbook.
What is the oldest known handbag?
The earliest identified example is a pouch carried by Ötzi the Iceman, dating to roughly 3350–3105 BC. The oldest surviving handbag in intact condition is the Courtauld bag, which dates to the early 1300s.
Who commissioned the first modern luxury handbags?
Samuel Parkinson commissioned the first modern luxury handbags in 1841. These pieces marked the shift of handbags from simple utility pouches into high-end fashion accessories.
What does a handbag symbolize in fashion?
Beyond its practical role of holding personal items, a handbag has long functioned as a visible marker of wealth and social status. It operates as both a functional accessory and a statement piece within the fashion world.
How has the handbag evolved from its original purpose?
The term originally described a small bag specifically for holding coins, but over centuries it expanded into a larger accessory capable of carrying a wide variety of personal objects. That evolution spans from ancient pouches to the elaborate luxury bags seen in modern wardrobes.
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