Austrian Cuisine Codexery

Hash (food)

A dish of chopped meat, potatoes, and fried onions.

Hash (food)

Hash gets its name from the French verb *hacher*, meaning "to chop," and the dish itself is built from chopped meat, potatoes, and fried onions. In the United States, the specific term 'hash' for chopped meat and potatoes became common in the 19th century, with many recipes and "hash houses" named after it. September 27 is recognized there as National Corned Beef Hash Day. The classic American version, corned beef hash, started in New England as a way to use leftovers from a traditional boiled dinner of beef, cabbage, potatoes, and onions. A variation called red flannel hash includes beets, while fish hash—such as salt cod hash—also appears in historical New England cooking. Corned beef and cabbage dinners became an Irish-American tradition in the 1800s, and corned beef hash is now commonly served on St. Patrick’s Day, as well as around Thanksgiving and Christmas. In the Midwest, cooks often bound hash together with a white sauce thickened with flour. In the southern United States, the term "hash" can refer to a pork-and-offal stew served over rice, or, in Texas, a thick stew of pork, chicken, and beef seasoned with salt, pepper, and other spices, reduced overnight over an open flame in an iron pot.

Canned corned beef hash as a distinct product became more common in the US post-WWII, not in Britain and France during the war. In the United Kingdom, people were making *hache* or *hachy* as early as the 1300s. Cookbook author Steven Raichlen notes that diarist Samuel Pepys praised a rabbit hash he ate in 1662. An 18th-century recipe for "excellent hash" called for a seasoned roux with herbs, onion, cayenne, mace, and nutmeg, plus broth or gravy and mushroom ketchup, in which cold beef was simmered gently. Simpler versions omitted fancy ingredients like mushroom ketchup and added root vegetables such as carrots and boiled potatoes. "Norman hash" was gravy and onions served over slices of leftover roast beef.

Hash may be served for breakfast, lunch, or supper. In the United States, breakfast hash often comes with eggs, toast, hollandaise sauce, or baked beans. High-end restaurants offer sophisticated hash dishes, and modern preparations use unconventional ingredients like lamb, fish, venison, turkey, chicken, shrimp, steak, or vegetables.

Around the world, similar dishes exist. In Denmark, *biksemad* ("tossed-together food") uses leftover pork, potato, and oni

origin
France (name from French hacher)
main_ingredients
Chopped meat, potatoes, fried onions
variants
Corned beef hash, red flannel hash, fish hash, biksemad, pyttipanna, Gröstl, picadillo, Labskaus
associated_dates
September 27 (National Corned Beef Hash Day in the United States)
historical_period
At least 14th century in England; canned corned beef hash popularized in the US post-WWII

Lore & Background

Hash has a long history, with English people making 'hache' or 'hachy' as early as the 14th century. The English diarist Samuel Pepys wrote about a rabbit hash he savored in 1662. An 18th-century recipe for 'excellent hash' used a seasoned roux with herbs, onion, cayenne, mace, nutmeg, broth or gravy, and mushroom ketchup, in which cold beef was simmered. Simpler versions omitted mushroom ketchup and added root vegetables like carrots and boiled potatoes. 'Norman hash' was a dish of gravy and onions over leftover roast beef slices.

Reader's Guide

Hash became especially popular in Britain and France during and after the Second World War, as rationing limited fresh meat availability. Canned corned beef hash was a key form. In the United States, classic corned beef hash originated in New England as a way to use leftovers from a boiled dinner of beef, cabbage, potatoes, and onions. Red flannel hash includes beets. Fish hash, including salt cod hash, appears in historical New England cuisine. Hash may be served for breakfast, lunch, or supper; in the US, breakfast hash may come with eggs, toast, hollandaise sauce, or baked beans. High-end restaurants offer sophisticated hash dishes, and modern preparations use unconventional ingredients such as lamb, fish, venison, turkey, chicken, shrimp, steak, or vegetables. In the southern US, 'hash' can refer to a pork and offal stew served over rice, or in Texas a thick stew of pork, chicken, and beef reduced overnight. In Denmark, biksemad uses leftover pork, potato, and onion, served with a fried egg and condiments. Sweden's pyttipanna and Austria's Gröstl are similar. In Spanish and Portuguese cuisines, picadillo or carne moída is made with ground meat, tomatoes, and vegetables. The Philippines has carne norte con patatas and pork giniling. Germany's Labskaus uses beef or corned beef with onions and potatoes.

Did You Know?

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Hash (food)?

Hash is a hearty dish built around chopped meat, potatoes, and fried onions, with roots stretching back to at least the 14th century in England. The name derives from the French verb hacher, meaning "to chop," which describes the core preparation technique.

Where does the name "Hash" come from?

The term traces back to the French word hacher, which simply means "to chop." This chopping technique became the defining characteristic of the dish and gave it its name, which later spread into English-speaking culinary vocabulary during the 19th century.

What are the main ingredients in Hash?

The classic preparation combines chopped meat, potatoes, and fried onions as its foundational trio. Depending on the regional variant, additional elements like beets, fish, or specific cuts of beef may be folded in.

What is the Austrian or German counterpart to Hash?

In Austria and Germany, the closest equivalent is Gröstl, a pan-fried mixture of chopped meat and potatoes that shares the same chopping-and-frying DNA. Similar relatives include Labskaus in northern Germany and pyttipanna in Hungary.

Why is Hash important in culinary history?

The dish served as a practical way to repurpose leftovers from traditional boiled dinners, a practice that became especially popular in New England during the 19th century. Its enduring appeal is reflected in cultural touchstones like September 27, designated National Corned Beef Hash Day in the United States.

More in Austrian cuisine 1-24

Spotted an error? Know more?

This is a living reference — every entry is fact-audited, and reader corrections feed straight into our audit queue. Suggest an edit · See this site's audit record

Comments

Loading…
Open in the interactive codex →